The poorest, perhaps, of all Sard dishes, some version of mazzamurru is often a shepherd’s supper or humble sustenance for a bountyless hunter’s family. Made of whatever stuffs might be at hand, the commonalities of mazzamurru are rich ewe’s milk, some rough bread, and shards of sharp, salty cheese. The ornaments are often a handful of wild grasses or a few sun-dried tomatoes, some olives, a crush of dried herbs. Present the mazzamurru with a bowlful of some simple tomato sauce or, better, no sauce at all, its nakedness tasting of such goodness.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　Trenchers of good country bread, with its crusts intact, 8 1/2 inches thick by 6 inches long

　　2 cups whole milk

　　2 cups heavy cream

　　2 large eggs, lightly beaten

　　1 teaspoon fine sea salt

　　Freshly cracked pepper

　　1 1/2 cups just-grated pecorino

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 fat cloves garlic, peeled, crushed, and minced

　　1 small, dried red chile pepper, crushed, or 1/3 to 1/2 teaspoon dried chile flakes

　　

Step 1

Pave the bottom of a large, shallow terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron casserole with the bread. Warm the milk and the cream to the point just before it simmers. Permit the milk/cream to cool for a minute or two, then beat in the eggs. Pour half the still-hot milk/cream/egg mixture over the bread. Sprinkle on half the sea salt, generous grindings of pepper, and half the pecorino. Repeat the procedure with the remaining bread, hot milk/cream/egg, sea salt, more pepper, and the pecorino. Cover the pudding with a clean kitchen towel and permit the bread to inhale its warm, creamy bath for 1/2 hour.

　　

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

　　

Step 3

In a small sauté pan over a medium flame, warm the olive oil and soften the garlic, taking care not to let it color. Add the chile pepper and roll it about for 1 minute, scenting the oil. Just before baking the pudding, thread the perfumed oil evenly over it.

　　

Step 4

Bake the pudding for 35 to 40 minutes or until it is deeply golden.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy