One of the gifts of the nouvelle cuisine movement was the puréed vegetable. At its worst, a sad puddle of unidentifiable beige gunk; at its most successful, a moreish pool of intensely flavored, silk-textured essence. Sprouts, which marry so happily with cream, tend to look like baby food when given this treatment, so I keep them coarsely chopped instead of whizzed to a pulp. I am exceptionally fond of this little side dish.

Ingredients

　　Brussels sprouts – 1 1/4 pounds (600g)

　　a little grated nutmeg

　　heavy cream – 1 cup (250ml)

　　Parmesan – scant 1 cup (100g) grated

　　Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Remove any tatty leaves from the sprouts. Cook the sprouts in rapidly boiling unsalted water for four minutes. Drain, then put them in a food processor, along with some salt and pepper. Process briefly, till no more than coarsely chopped, then season with a very small pinch of nutmeg. Stir in the cream and most of the cheese. Scoop into a baking dish. Scatter with the reserved Parmesan and bake for twenty-five minutes or so, until golden.

　　Tender