Russet (also called Idaho) potatoes are not usually recommended for potato salad. They can become waterlogged when boiled and fall apart easily. Their high-starch, low-moisture content makes them inclined to absorb too much dressing. But that is the beauty of this dish. This is the archetypical summer potato salad that has been served on paper plates across the country for generations. When Mama prepares this salad, she lets the potatoes cool just enough, but not completely. The cubes break down slightly and the salad is a blend of larger pieces of potato with a little bit of creamy mash. This is one of my sister’s favorite dishes, a comforting classic that echoes with childhood memories whenever Mama makes it, so she always makes a big batch. The recipe halves beautifully.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　7 russet potatoes (about 3 pounds)

　　Coarse salt

　　1 1/2 cups mayonnaise (page 282)

　　5 large hard-cooked eggs (see page 11), peeled and grated

　　1 small onion, preferably Vidalia, finely chopped

　　4 stalks celery, finely chopped

　　1/4 cup sweet pickle or dill pickle relish

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

To cook the potatoes, peel them and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Immediately place them in a large pot with water to cover; season with salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then decrease the heat to low. Simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and transfer them to a large shallow bowl to cool.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, to make the dressing, combine the mayonnaise, grated eggs, onion, celery, and pickle relish in a bowl. Once the potatoes have cooled completely, pour the dressing over the potatoes and stir to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.