It is so simple to transform a hard, homely celery root into a lovely salad with delicate taste and texture. Just drop the big root—a softball-sized unpeeled round—into a big pot of water, and let it cook for an hour or more. This technique retains and mellows the root’s wonderful flavor, and makes it easy to peel and cut it up too. Dress this simply, or take the salad in a different direction (see variations).

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1 large celery root, 2 to 2 1/2 pounds

　　1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

　　Two 1/4-pound bunches scallions finely chopped (about 1 cup)

　　2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil, or to taste

　　2 to 3 teaspoons red wine vinegar, or to taste

　　1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

　　

Step 1

To cook whole celery root, rinse it briefly to remove any soil, then put it into a large saucepan with cold water to cover. Since it floats, you can weight it with a pot cover or dish on the root to keep it under the surface, or just turn it over in the water now and then to cook evenly. Bring the water to a boil, and cook for about an hour, until tender, when you can pierce the whole root with a skewer.

　　

Step 2

Set the root in a colander or on a wire rack, and let it cool for 10 minutes or so, until you can handle it. Use the back of a thin knife blade (the dull edge) to scrape off the soft brown skin; use the knife tip to cut out the bits of skin in the folds and knobby parts of the root. When it is completely clear, cut the round root into wedges, chunks, slices, cubes, sticks, or any shape you like, and sprinkle with about 1/4 teaspoon of salt while still warm. Toss the pieces with the scallions, and dress with oil, vinegar, more salt, and pepper. Let the salad cool completely, or refrigerate it.

　　

Step 3

Serve at room temperature or chilled. Before serving, taste a piece of celery root and adjust the dressing if you like. Toss with the chopped parsley, and arrange the salad on a serving platter or in portions on salad plates.

　　

Variations for celery root salad

Step 4

For milder flavor, poach the scallions with the celery root for 10 minutes before slicing them.

　　

Step 5

Garnish the salad with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano.

　　

Step 6

For a lovely and unusual first-course salad, fold in sliced fresh pears (but omit the scallions).

　　

Step 7

For a heartier main-course salad, fold in hard-boiled eggs, tuna, or cooked meats.

　　

Step 8

For an interesting twist on celery root, roast the whole unpeeled root in a 350° oven for an hour or more, until tender all the way through. Cool, peel, and make your favorite salad.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.