Active Time

　　1 3/4 hr

　　Total Time

　　5 1/4 hr

　　This dramatic first course won't soon be forgotten. Chunks of sweet lobster meat bound by a shimmering jelly of fennel-and-tarragon-scented lobster stock promises the most pristine lobster salad you'll ever taste.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 8 servings

　　8 quarts water

　　4 (1 1/4-lb) live lobsters

　　1 cup dry white wine

　　3 carrots, chopped

　　2 celery ribs, chopped

　　1 fennel bulb (sometimes labeled "anise") with fronds, stalks, and bulb chopped and fronds reserved for fresh tarragon oil

　　1 medium onion, finely chopped

　　3 large garlic cloves, minced

　　3 (6-inch) plus 8 (1-inch) sprigs fresh tarragon

　　1 teaspoon salt

　　1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, slightly crushed

　　1/4 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes

　　2 1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin (from two 1/4-oz envelopes)

　　1 1/2 teaspoons tarragon white-wine vinegar

　　1/3 cup fresh tarragon oil

　　Accompaniment: lobster claw toasts

　　

Special Equipment

a 10- to 12-qt pot; heavy-duty (sometimes labeled "fine") cheesecloth; 8 (5- to 6-oz) baba au rhum molds or ramekins

　　

Cook lobsters and make stock:

Step 1

Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in pot, then plunge 2 lobsters headfirst into water and cook, covered, 8 minutes from time they enter water. Transfer with tongs to a shallow baking pan to cool. Return water to a boil and cook remaining 2 lobsters in same manner.

　　

Step 2

When lobsters are cool enough to handle, remove meat from tail and claws and set aside. Cut tail shells and lobster bodies (not including claws) into 1-inch pieces with kitchen shears, then rinse well, discarding gills, eye sacs, tomalley, any roe, and claw shells. Transfer to a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot, then add wine, carrots, celery, fennel, onion, garlic, large tarragon sprigs, salt, fennel seeds, red-pepper flakes, and remaining 2 quarts water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced to about 6 cups, about 1 1/2 hours.

　　

Step 3

While stock reduces, scrape any coagulated white albumin from lobster meat with a knife and cut meat into 1/2-inch pieces, then chill, covered.

　　

Make gelées:

Step 4

Pour stock through a dampened cheesecloth-lined large sieve into a large bowl, pressing on and then discarding solids. Transfer 2 3/4 cups stock to a bowl. (Cool remaining stock completely, uncovered, then freeze in an airtight container for another use.) Sprinkle gelatin evenly over 1/4 cup stock in a 1-quart saucepan, then let stand 1 minute to soften. Heat over moderately low heat, stirring, just until gelatin is dissolved, then stir in vinegar and remaining 2 1/2 cups stock.

　　

Step 5

Put molds in a baking pan. Add 2 teaspoons gelatin mixture to each mold and freeze until set, about 10 minutes. Put 1 small sprig of tarragon and a tip of claw meat in bottom of each mold, then divide lobster meat among molds. Fill with remaining gelatin mixture and chill, covered with plastic wrap, until set, at least 2 hours.

　　

Step 6

To unmold, dip 1 mold in a pan of hot water 3 to 5 seconds to loosen. Run a thin knife around edge of mold and invert gelée out onto a plate. Repeat with remaining molds. Drizzle plates with fresh tarragon oil .

　　Cooks' note:

　　Gelées can be chilled in molds up to 2 days.