(MADELEINES)

　　While researching this book, I became fixated, absolutely fanatical, about madeleines, the plump golden tea cakes shaped like scallop shells. They were something to boost my spirits on the days when I walked for miles sleuthing in search of culinary jewels. I tasted dozens of madeleines, but only a few were "just right." The best, freshest madeleine has a dry, almost dusty taste when eaten on its own. One of my favorite versions is made by André Lerch, an Alsatian baker with a bread and pastry shop on the Left Bank.

　　To be truly appreciated — to "invade the senses with exquisite pleasure" as they did for Marcel Proust — Madeleines must be dipped in tea, ideally the slightly lime-flavoured tilleul, which releases the fragrant, flavorful lemon essence of the little tea cake. Special madeleine tins can be found in all the French restaurant supply shops and in the housewares section of department stores. The following is a recipe I developed.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 36 3-inch (8-cm) madeleines

　　4 eggs

　　1 cup (200 g) sugar

　　Grated zest of 2 lemons

　　1 3/4 cups (225 g) all-purpose flour (do not use unbleached flour)

　　3/4 cup (6 ounces; 185 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

　　1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce; 15 g) unsalted butter, for buttering madeleine tins (see above)

　　

Step 1

Place the eggs and sugar in a large bowl; then, using a whisk or an electric mixer, beat until lemon colored. Add the zest. Fold in the flour, then 3/4 cup melted butter.

　　

Step 2

Refrigerate the batter, covered, for 1 hour.

　　

Step 3

Preheat the oven to 375°F(190°C.)

　　

Step 4

Butter the madeleine tins; then spoon in the batter, filling each well about three-fourths full. Bake 10 to 12 minutes, or until the madeleines are golden brown.

　　

Step 5

Remove the madeleines from their tins as soon as they're baked, and cool them on a wire rack. (Note: Wash the tins immediately with a stiff brush and hot water but no detergent so that they retain their seasoning.) The madeleines are best eaten as soon as they've cooled. They may, however, be stored for several days in an airtight container.

　　Reprinted with permission from The Food Lover's Guide to Paris by Patricia Wells. © 1999 Workman Publishing