As with all braised vegetable dishes, the results here depend largely on the quality of two ingredients: the vegetable itself and the braising liquid. Since it’s easy enough to find good leeks, you have to be certain that the red wine is, if not great, then at least drinkable; and if you have good homemade stock, this is the place to use it. Other vegetables you can prepare this way: Belgian endive, split in half the long way; onions, halved or quartered (or spring onions, left whole).

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 tablespoons butter, extra virgin olive oil, or a combination

　　4 leeks, trimmed and cleaned (page 465)

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　2 cups good-quality red wine

　　2 tablespoons beef stock or chicken stock, preferably homemade, or water

　　

Step 1

Put the butter in a skillet with a lid or a saucepan large enough to hold the leeks in one layer and place over medium heat. A minute later, add the leeks; sprinkle them with salt and pepper and cook, turning once or twice, for about 5 minutes, until they begin to brown.

　　

Step 2

Add the wine and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily. Cook until the leeks are tender, 20 to 30 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Use a slotted spoon to transfer the leeks to a platter. Raise the heat under the liquid and cook, stirring occasionally, until it thickens and is reduced to about 1/2 cup. Pour it over the leeks and serve immediately or serve at room temperature or cold.

　　

Leeks in White Wine (Germany)

Step 4

A less rich, more tart preparation: In step 2, substitute white wine for the red; omit the stock. Finish with the juice of 1/2 lemon.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.