As we write this, it seems much more acceptable to spend $18 for an entire appetizer than it does to spend $180 an ounce for real caviar. What makes this setup grand is the ceremonial feel it has, like something you could get on the Orient Express. Feel free to use any kind of fish eggs: whitefish, salmon, trout, or even smoked or preserved fish. It’s also crucial that what you save on the real caviar, you spend on Champagne and on an overpriced silver serving dish from eBay. Eat it in your bed or on the bus.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4

　　

BLINI

1/3 cup (40 g) all-purpose flour, sifted

　　2/3 cup (85 g) buckwheat flour

　　1/4 teaspoon salt

　　1 tablespoon baking powder

　　1 egg

　　1 cup (250 ml) water

　　2 tablespoons neutral oil, plus more for cooking

　　1 teaspoon sugar

　　Melted unsalted butter for serving

　　1 small container mújol (Spanish mullet caviar) or Canadian or American sturgeon caviar (1 ounce/30 g per person)

　　4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and whites and yolks separated and chopped (or pushed through a coarse-mesh sieve)

　　1/4 cup (10 g) chopped fresh chives

　　2 lemons, halved

　　1/2 cup (125 ml) crème fraîche (see Smorgasbord insert)

　　2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish

　　

Step 1

To make the blini, in a bowl, sift together the all-purpose flour, buckwheat flour, salt, and baking powder. In another bowl, whisk together the egg, water, oil, and sugar until well mixed. Whisk together the dry ingredients and wet ingredients briefly. It is better to have tiny clumps than rubbery dough.

　　

Step 2

Place a nonstick frying pan over medium heat and add 1 teaspoon of oil. When the pan is hot, drop in the batter by spoonfuls, forming silver dollar–size blini. When the tops begin to set, flip the blini carefully. Continue to cook until firm. They should take 2 to 3 minutes total to fry. Transfer to a warm tray and cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter. You should have about 24 blini. Just before serving, brush with melted butter.

　　

Step 3

To serve, place the caviar, eggs, chives, lemons, crème fraiche, and horseradish in serving dishes alongside the warm blini. Build as you see fit.

　　Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.