A narrow strip of land at the southwestern tip of India, the state of Kerala is interlaced with a network of lagoons, canals, lakes, and rivers. Peddlers sell fish from these waters and other food by boat along the canals.

　　This curry is styled after the ones these boatmen cook for themselves. It incorporates many ingredients of the Kerala kitchen: black peppercorns, fiery red chiles, mustard seeds, and the ubiquitous coconut. In India they toss about 20 fresh curry leaves into the kettle along with the onion, garlic, gingerroot, chiles, and peppercorns. These aromatic leaves can be difficult to find in the U.S., but if you locate some, by all means use them.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 6

　　1 1/2 pounds jumbo lump crab meat

　　1 medium onion

　　3 large garlic cloves

　　a 1-inch piece fresh gingerroot

　　2 dried hot red chiles such as cayennes or chiles de árbol

　　2 tablespoons vegetable oil

　　1 teaspoon brown or black mustard seeds

　　1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

　　1 teaspoon ground cumin

　　1 teaspoon ground coriander seeds

　　1/2 teaspoon turmeric

　　1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro sprigs

　　1 1/2 cupsLaxmi's fresh coconut milk or canned unsweetened coconut milk

　　1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt, or to taste

　　Accompaniment: cooked white or brown basmati rice

　　Garnish: sliced scallion greens

　　

Step 1

Pick over crab meat to remove any bits of shell and cartilage. Chop onion and mince garlic. Peel gingerroot and mince. Wearing protective gloves, break chiles into 1-inch pieces and reserve, along with any seeds.

　　

Step 2

In a 4- to 5-quart kettle heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and cook mustard seeds until they begin to pop. Stir in onion, garlic, gingerroot, reserved chiles with seeds, and peppercorns and cook, stirring, until chiles are just browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in other spices until combined well. Add crab and cook mixture, gently stirring occasionally (avoid breaking up crab), about 4 minutes.

　　

Step 3

While crab mixture is cooking, chop cilantro. Stir cilantro into crab mixture with coconut milk and salt and simmer until slightly thickened, 6 to 8 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Spoon curry over rice and garnish with scallion greens.