Even though much of the bitterness of this cultivar has been bred out, some extra sweetness is often welcome. Casting around for something sweet to scatter over a plate of steamed kale, I suddenly remembered the Sicilian habit of adding golden raisins to soft, sweet onions. The contrast between the leaves and their seasoning is strangely comforting. Quite when you might eat this is debatable. We first ate it with treacly rye bread and Gruyère cheese, next to fillets of smoked mackerel. It is tricky to know where it would sit most comfortably.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 2

　　kale or cavolo nero – 2 large handfuls

　　a medium onion

　　olive oil

　　golden raisins – 3 tablespoons

　　

For the Dressing

a blood orange

　　white wine vinegar – 2 tablespoons

　　extra-virgin olive oil

　　capers – 2 tablespoons

　　

Step 1

Wash and trim the leaves. Peel the onion and slice it thinly into rings. Pour a thin layer of oil, say a couple of tablespoons, into a shallow pan and let the onion cook for fifteen minutes or so, until soft and sweet. It will need the occasional stir to stop it browning beyond a pale honey color.

　　

Step 2

While the onion cooks, squeeze the orange juice into a small bowl, add the wine vinegar, then beat in up to five tablespoons of olive oil, to give a sweet-sharp dressing. Stir in the capers and a grinding of black pepper. Steam the greens briefly.

　　

Step 3

Pour the blood orange dressing into the pan with the onion, shake in the golden raisins, and spoon over the leaves.

　　Tender