These are sometimes called by different names, such as New York hard rolls, bulkies, or even Vienna rolls. But the distinguishing characteristic of a kaiser roll is the star pattern on the top and a thin, slightly crisp crust that yields to the first bite and crumbles deliciously in the mouth around whatever sandwich filling it holds. Most bakeshops make them using a direct-dough method and knock them out by the thousands. This version, again pushing the limits of our newfound understanding of fermentation and enzyme activity, utilizes old dough, pâte fermentée, to improve flavor, texture, and color, making the resulting rolls significantly better than their commercial counterparts. While strangers will be complaining that they can’t find a good old-fashioned New York hard roll, you will be spoiling your friends and family with these bulkies.

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 large rolls or 9 smaller rolls

　　1 1/2 cups (8 ounces) pâte fermentée (page 105)

　　2 1/4 cups (10 ounces) unbleached bread flour

　　3/4 teaspoon plus a pinch (.2 ounce) salt

　　1 teaspoon (.17 ounce) diastatic barley malt powder or 1 1/2 teaspoons (.33 ounce) barley malt syrup

　　1 teaspoon (.11 ounce) instant yeast

　　1 large (1.65 ounce) egg, slightly beaten

　　1 1/2 tablespoons (.75 ounce) vegetable oil or shortening, melted

　　10 tablespoons to 3/4 cup (5 to 6 ounces) water, lukewarm (90° to 100°F)

　　Poppy or sesame seeds for topping (optional)

　　Semolina flour or cornmeal for dusting

　　

Step 1

Take the pâte fermentée out of the refrigerator 1 hour before making the dough. Cut it up into about 10 small pieces with a pastry scraper or serrated knife. Cover it with a towel or plastic wrap and let sit for 1 hour to take off the chill.

　　

Step 2

Stir together the flour, salt, malt powder, and yeast in a 4-quart bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Add the pâte fermentée, egg, oil, and 10 tablespoons water. Stir (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment) for 1 minute, or until the ingredients form a ball. If there is still some loose flour, add the remaining 2 tablespoons water.

　　

Step 3

Lightly dust the counter with flour, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin kneading (or mix on medium speed with the dough hook). Knead for about 10 minutes (6 minutes by machine), adding flour, if needed, to make a dough that is soft and supple, tacky but not sticky. The dough should pass the windowpane test (page 59) and the internal temperature should register 77° to 81°F. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it to coat it with the oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

　　

Step 4

Ferment at room temperature for 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size. If the dough doubles in size before 2 hours have elapsed, remove it, knead it lightly to degas it, and return it to the bowl to continue fermenting until doubled from original size or until 2 hours have elapsed.

　　

Step 5

Remove the dough from the bowl and divide it into 6 to 9 equal pieces (4 ounces for large rolls, 2 2/3-ounce pieces for smaller rolls). Form the pieces into rolls, as shown on page 82. Mist the rounds lightly with spray oil, cover with a towel or plastic wrap, and let the dough relax for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line a sheet pan with baking parchment, lightly mist it with spray oil, and then dust with semolina flour or cornmeal.

　　

Step 6

Prepare the individual rolls by cutting them with a kaiser roll cutter (see photograph) or knotting them as shown on page 82. Place the rolls, cut side down, on the parchment, mist lightly with spray oil, and loosely cover the pan with plastic wrap or a food-grade plastic bag.

　　

Step 7

Proof the rolls for 45 minutes at room temperature, then flip them over so the cut or folded side is facing up. Mist again with spray oil, cover the pan, and continue proofing for another 30 to 45 minutes, or until the rolls are double their original size.

　　

Step 8

Preheat the oven to 425°F with the oven rack on the middle shelf. Uncover the rolls and prepare them for baking. If you want seeds on your rolls, mist them with water and sprinkle poppy seeds over the top. If not, just mist them with water.

　　

Step 9

Place the pan in the oven, spray the oven walls with water, and close the door. After 10 minutes, rotate the pan for even baking and lower the oven setting to 400°F. Continue baking until the rolls are a medium golden brown and register approximately 200°F in the center. This will take 15 to 30 minutes for large rolls, or less for smaller rolls.

　　

Step 10

Remove the rolls from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack. Wait at least 30 minutes before serving.

　　

BREAD PROFILE

Step 11

Enriched, standard dough; indirect method; commercial yeast

　　

DAYS TO MAKE: 2

Step 12

Day 1: 1 1/4 hours pâte fermentée

　　

Step 13

Day 2: 1 hour to de-chill pâte fermentée; 10 to 15 minutes mixing; 3 1/2 to 4 hours fermentation, shaping, and proofing; 15 to 30 minutes baking

　　

COMMENTARY

Step 14

The traditional method for shaping a kaiser roll requires a series of overlapping folds, like making a paper flower. It is time-consuming and difficult to teach. Most people now use a commercial kaiser cutter, either metal or plastic, available at most cookware stores or through mailorder catalogs (see Resources, page 286). Equally effective and fun and easy to make is a knotted roll design. The finished roll looks similar to the more difficult overlapping-fold technique.

　　

Step 15

You can use either a kaiser roll cutter (center) or the knotted-roll technique (left and right) to give your kaiser rolls their distinctive design.

　　

BAKER’S PERCENTAGE FORMULA

Step 16

Kaiser Rolls %

　　

Step 17

Pâte fermentée 80%

　　

Step 18

Bread flour 100%

　　

Step 19

Salt 2%

　　

Step 20

Diastatic malt powder 1.7%

　　

Step 21

Instant yeast 1.1%

　　

Step 22

Egg 16.5%

　　

Step 23

Oil 7.5%

　　

Step 24

Water (approx.) 55%

　　

Step 25

Total 263.8%

　　The Bread Baker's Apprentice