This particular kadi sauce is based on the Gujarati (Western India) version of a yogurt-based sauce thickened with gram flour (besan). In that region the sauce is sweet and sour. There is also a Northern Indian version, which is spicier and even more sour. They never add sugar to their kadi as Gujaratis do.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 2 1/2 cups

　　2 cups whole- milk yogurt

　　2 tablespoons gram flour (besan)

　　2 cups water

　　1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

　　2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

　　1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh Thai green chile

　　2 tablespoons canola oil

　　1 teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds

　　2 large dried Kashmiri chiles, halved

　　10 (1 1/2-inch) fresh curry leaves (more if smaller)

　　1/4 teaspoon asafetida

　　1 tablespoon sugar

　　1 1/2 teaspoons salt

　　

Step 1

In a small saucepan, combine the yogurt, gram flour, water, turmeric, ginger, and green chile. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil, 10 to 12 minutes. (Once the sauce comes to a boil, it is stabilized and the yogurt is no longer in danger of breaking.) Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and coats the back of the spoon, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.

　　

Step 2

In a small skillet, heat the oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the mustard seeds and let them crackle. Stir in the Kashmiri chilies, curry leaves, and asafetida. Scrape all of the pan’s contents into the yogurt sauce. Stir in the sugar and salt. If not using immediately, let cool. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

　　From Rasika: Flavors of India © 2017 by Ashok Bajaj and Vikram Sunderam. Reprinted with permission by Ecco, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.Buy the full book from HarperCollins or from Amazon.