A little dab of this hotness on fried fish will set you up! Capsaicin, the chemical compound in chiles that makes them hot, is water repellent. Not only does water not stop the fire, but it also spreads the capsaicin around. However, it easily combines with fats. So, if you’ve had a little too much heat, reach for milk or yogurt instead of water, wine, or beer.

Ingredients

　　1 cup mayonnaise (page 282)

　　1 jalapeño chile, cored, seeded, and finely chopped

　　1/4 cup sweet pickle relish

　　3 tablespoons capers, rinsed, drained, and chopped

　　Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

　　2 teaspoons freshly grated or well-drained prepared horseradish

　　2 teaspoons hot sauce

　　Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, jalapeño, relish, capers, lemon zest, lemon juice, horseradish, and hot sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour to blend the flavors. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Serve chilled.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.