Whether the tomatoes are fresh or canned is a seasonal matter: in summer, choose fresh ones; in winter, use canned ones. Both make a delicious, rich sauce for braising meatballs. When using fresh tomatoes, I like to peel them and I don’t bother to seed them, but that is the cook’s choice, depending on time constraints and inclination. The herbs are also a matter of choice: fresh or dried basil (the most usual addition), marjoram, or tarragon all enhance the sauce with a mildly sweet herbal presence; oregano or bay add a more assertive flavor. Spaghetti is traditional for this everyday, home-style dish, but other shapes, such as bow ties, small rigatoni, or penne, will also capture and hold the sauce as the pasta is lifted from plate to mouth. For the meatballs, I like to use my polpette, because their cheese centers add an extra oomph to the dish. But you can also use meatballs fashioned from either sweet Italian or Tuscan sausage with good results.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

　　1 1/2 pounds Beef Polpette with a Cheese Center (page 72), or Sweet Italian Sausage (page 37) or Tuscan Sausage (page 41), formed into 1 1/2- to 2-inch balls

　　2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

　　3 pounds tomatoes, peeled or not and chopped, or 6 cups diced canned tomatoes, with juices

　　2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil, marjoram, tarragon, oregano, or bay, or 1 teaspoon dried of any of the herbs

　　1 teaspoon sugar

　　1 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

　　1 1/2 pounds spaghetti or other dry pasta

　　3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

　　

Step 1

To make the sauce, heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large nonreactive pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches to avoid crowding, sauté the meatballs until browned all around, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining meatballs, adding more oil to the pot if needed to prevent sticking. Set the meatballs aside.

　　

Step 2

Add the garlic to the oil remaining in the pot and sauté over medium-high heat until it is ever so lightly golden. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the herb, sugar, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Add the meatballs, decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover partially, and cook until the sauce is reduced and no longer raw tasting, about 1 1/2 hours.

　　

Step 3

When the meatballs and sauce are almost done, cook the pasta al dente according to the package directions, drain briefly, and return it, still moist, to its cooking pot. Cover and set aside in a warm place while the sauce finishes cooking.

　　

Step 4

To serve, combine the pasta with the sauce and meatballs in a large bowl and toss gently to mix. Serve right away, with the Parmesan on the side.

　　Sausage