Whole wheat flour may seem to be the choice of health nuts or diet-conscious shoppers looking for whole grains, neither of which suggests typical Southern bread. This is true for more modern breads, but Antebellum and Colonial grains were not as processed as modern flour is and were closer to what we now consider whole wheat flour. This homey bread also uses honey, a natural sweetener, instead of refined white sugar. I do, however, suggest using a modern fat, canola oil, over bacon fat (but now that I think of it, bacon fat sure sounds good!).

　　

Ingredients

makes two 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaves

　　3 1/4 cups warm water (100° to 110°F)

　　1/3 cup honey (preferably tupelo, orange blossom, or sweet clover), plus more for accompaniment

　　2 packets (4 1/2 teaspoons) active dry yeast

　　Canola oil, for the bowl and pans

　　4 cups bread flour, plus more for dusting

　　3 cups whole wheat flour

　　1 cup wheat germ

　　2 tablespoons fine sea salt

　　Unsalted butter, for accompaniment

　　

Step 1

In a large liquid measuring cup, combine the warm water, 1/3 cup honey, and yeast. Stir until dissolved. Set aside to proof. The mixture will become creamy and foamy, about 5 minutes. Lightly oil a large bowl.

　　

Step 2

To make the dough, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the bread flour, whole wheat flour, wheat germ, and salt. Pour in the yeast and knead on low speed until well combined.

　　

Step 3

To shape the dough, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough by using the heel of your hand to compress and push the dough away from you, and then fold it back over itself. Give the dough a small turn and repeat until the dough is smooth and elastic, 5 to 7 minutes. (The dough is ready if it bounces back when pressed with your fingers.) Place the dough in the oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a dry towel and let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

　　

Step 4

Brush two 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pans with oil.

　　

Step 5

Turn the dough out onto a clean, lightly floured work surface, and punch down. Halve the dough; flatten one piece into an oval and roll up lengthwise. Place the roll, seam side down, into one of the prepared pans. Repeat with the remaining dough. Cover the loaves with a dry cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.

　　

Step 6

To bake the loaves, preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake until deep golden brown, about 55 minutes. The loaves will sound hollow when tapped on the top. Transfer the pans to a wire rack, and let cool for 5 minutes. Invert the loaves onto the rack to cool completely. Serve warm with butter and additional honey.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.