This is the much-loved national soup of Morocco. During the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset, the smell permeates the streets as every household prepares its own version to be eaten when the sound of the cannon signals the breaking of the fast at sunset. It is eaten with dates and honeyed cakes. A particular feature is the way it is given what is described in Morocco as a “velvety” touch by stirring in a yeasty batter or simply flour mixed with water.

　　

Ingredients

serves 10

　　2 marrow bones, washed (optional)

　　1 pound lamb or beef, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

　　1 pound small whole onions, peeled, or 2 large ones, coarsely chopped

　　1 cup chickpeas or beans (haricot, navy, or fava), soaked overnight

　　3/4 cup large brown lentils, washed

　　1 pound ripe tomatoes, chopped

　　4 stalks celery with leaves, diced

　　1 tablespoon tomato paste

　　1 teaspoon pepper

　　1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

　　1/2 teaspoon saffron threads or powder

　　Salt

　　5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

　　3/4 cup rice or crushed vermicelli (optional)

　　3/4 cup chopped cilantro

　　1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　3 lemons, cut into wedges

　　

Step 1

Blanch the bones in boiling water for a few minutes and throw out the water. Put the meat and bones in a large pan with the onions and the chickpeas or beans. Cover with about 12 cups water and bring to the boil. Remove the scum and simmer, covered, for 1 1/2–2 hours. Add the drained lentils and tomatoes, the celery and tomato paste, pepper, ginger, and saffron and simmer a further 15 minutes, adding water if necessary. Add salt when the lentils begin to soften. This part of the cooking can be done hours in advance.

　　

Step 2

In a small pan, beat 2 cups of cold water gradually and vigorously into the flour so as not to have any lumps. Add a ladle of broth from the soup and stir over low heat until the mixture begins to boil. Simmer for 10 minutes until it thickens.

　　

Step 3

If you are adding rice or vermicelli to the soup, it is best not to put it in long before serving, as it gets bloated and mushy. Stir in the rice and cook 15 minutes, or the crushed vermicelli and cook 5 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Pour the flour-and-broth batter into the soup, stirring vigorously. Add the chopped cilantro and parsley and cook a few minutes more, until the soup acquires a light, creamy texture.

　　

Step 5

Serve with lemon wedges.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf