In the holy month of Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset and partake of a hearty meal after sunset. This often includes harira, a filling, flavorful, and easily varied soup. If your cilantro comes with roots, wash them well, tie them in a bundle, and add them to the stew for extra flavor; remove before serving.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 to 6 servings

　　1 tablespoon butter or olive oil

　　1 pound boneless lamb shoulder or boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch cubes

　　1 medium onion, chopped

　　1 bunch of fresh parsley, large stems removed, chopped

　　1 bunch of cilantro, large stems removed, chopped

　　1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

　　1 teaspoon ground turmeric

　　Salt and black pepper

　　1/2 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight, or 1 cup canned or precooked chickpeas, drained

　　1/2 cup dried lentils, picked over

　　2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped, or about 2 cups drained canned

　　1/4 cup vermicelli or other thin noodles broken into small pieces

　　2 lemons

　　

Step 1

Put the butter in a large saucepan or flameproof casserole and turn the heat to medium-high. When it melts, add the lamb or chicken and brown evenly, about 2 minutes per side. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, until it softens a bit. Stir in the parsley, cilantro, cinnamon, turmeric, a large pinch of salt, and about 1 teaspoon pepper.

　　

Step 2

Add the chickpeas and 6 cups water. Bring the mixture to a boil, turn the heat to medium-low, and simmer, partially covered, until the chickpeas begin to soften, at least 30 minutes. (If you’re using canned or precooked chickpeas, add them and the lentils at the same time.) Add the lentils and simmer for another 30 minutes, stirring now and then. Add the tomatoes and simmer for a final 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. (You can prepare the soup up to this point a day or two ahead; refrigerate if it will be more than an hour or two, then reheat before adding the noodles and finishing.)

　　

Step 3

Add the noodles to the simmering stew about 10 minutes before serving. Add the juice of one of the lemons, along with more salt and pepper if necessary. Serve, with the remaining lemon cut into wedges.

　　

Vegetarian Harira

Step 4

Omit the lamb or chicken and use a good vegetable stock (page 162) instead of water. As the noodles become tender, stir in 2 lightly beaten eggs.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.