I like to use a variety of shell beans for this dish. Because of their different sizes and shapes, cook each type of bean separately, dividing the other ingredients as necessary. You may need a little more oil if you have many varieties of beans. The starchy liquid from cooking the beans is delicious in the ragoût.

　　

Ingredients

1/4 to 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1/4 cup finely diced onion

　　2 teaspoons minced garlic

　　1 tablespoon thyme leaves

　　3 cups fresh shell beans, such as flageolets, black beans, black-eyed peas, limas, or cranberry beans

　　1/2 pound haricots verts, stems removed, tails left on

　　2 tablespoons finely diced shallot

　　2 tablespoons sliced opal basil

　　2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

To cook fresh shell beans

Step 1

For each type of bean, heat a small or medium saucepan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Swirl 2 tablespoons olive oil into each pan and divide the onion, garlic, and 2 teaspoons thyme between them. Sauté over medium heat about 5 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the shell beans (again, cooking each variety separately), and cook a few minutes, stirring to coat them in the oil. Add salt and water to cover by 2 inches. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the beans are just tender. (The cooking time will really depend on the beans. Taste one to see if it’s done.) Remove from the heat, and cool the beans in the cooking liquid.

　　

To make the ragoût

Step 2

While the beans are cooking, blanch the haricots verts in a large pot of salted boiling water 2 to 3 minutes, until tender but still al dente. Transfer the haricots verts to a baking sheet to cool.

　　

Step 3

Drain the shell beans, reserving their cooking liquid.

　　

Step 4

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 1 minute. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil, and add the haricots verts, diced shallot, and remaining 1 teaspoon thyme to the pan. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and some pepper. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, tossing to coat the haricots verts in the shallot mixture. Add the shell beans, and stir gently, being careful not to crush the beans. Add about 1/2 cup (or a little more if you like) shell bean liquid to moisten the ragoût. Taste for seasoning, and cook a few minutes, until the beans are hot. Toss in the basil and chopped parsley at the last minute.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)