One of the happiest memories of my childhood in Cairo is the outings in the company of several uncles, aunts, and cousins to an old restaurant called Le Café des Pigeons on the way to the Pyramids, where we feasted on charcoal-broiled baby pigeons. Huge platters, piled high with halved pigeons sprinkled with lemon juice and parsley, were brought to us in the ancient gardens of the restaurant, overgrown with jasmine and bougainvillea. The birds were so young and tender we could eat them bones and all. Mediterranean pigeons are like squabs. You can also use poussins (small spring chickens) in the same way. They are best grilled over dying embers, where they acquire a most seductive flavor and aroma, but you can also cook them indoors, over the heat of a pumice-stone rock grill or under the broiler. Serve them with salad and pita bread.

　　

Ingredients

serves 2-4

　　2 Mediterranean pigeons, squabs, or poussins

　　1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　

For the Marinade

Juice of 1–1 1/2 lemons

　　1 onion, liquefied in a blender or food processor

　　2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed (optional)

　　3 tablespoons olive oil

　　Salt and pepper

　　

Step 1

Cut the pigeons, squabs, or poussins in half down the breastbone and through the back with kitchen shears or a bread knife. Cut the wing and leg joints just enough to pull them a little apart, so that the halves lie flat and cook more evenly. Or cut the birds into quarters. Refrigerate for about an hour, turning the pieces over at least once.

　　

Step 2

Place the marinated pieces on an oiled grill over glowing embers which are no longer smoking. Cook, basting with the marinade, and turning over once, for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until the pieces are brown all over but still tender and juicy inside. Test one piece by cutting it with a knife. The juices should not be pink.

　　

Step 3

Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

　　

Variations

Step 4

Turks like to flavor this with a little cinnamon instead of the garlic and lemon.

　　

Step 5

Brushing with melted butter instead of the marinade produces a very succulent result.

　　

Step 6

A delicious variation is to marinate the chicken pieces for as long as possible in yogurt flavored with crushed garlic, salt, and pepper. Sometimes dried crushed mint is added, and a little paprika is mixed with the yogurt to give the chicken an appetizing red color. The yogurt does not contribute very much to the flavor, but serves to tenderize the flesh of the chicken.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf