The first time I had gâteau basque, I was living in the southwest of France and trying, in my little spare time, to sample as many of the local treats as possible. Gâteau basque, a very moist, buttery cake with a certain je ne sais quoi, was by far my favorite. Despite its name, it’s not really a gâteau, or cake, but rather two layers of buttery, crumbly crust filled with pastry cream. As it bakes, the crust and filling meld into one delicious whole. This rural dessert has many interpretations, with fillings that vary from almonds to raisins to fruit jams. For this version our first pastry chef, Sara Lauren, came up with a pastry cream spiked with an unusual combination of Armagnac, rum, orange-flower water, and almond extract. The cake doesn’t taste like any one of those flavorings, but together they somehow evoke that unforgettable flavor of the Basque country.

　　

Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour

　　1/4 cup almond meal

　　2 teaspoons baking powder

　　1 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1 cup granulated sugar

　　8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pan

　　1 extra-large egg

　　3 extra-large egg yolks

　　1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

　　2 tablespoons Pernod

　　Basque pastry cream, cooled (recipe follows)

　　1 cup heavy cream

　　1/4 cup crème fraîche

　　Armagnac prunes (recipe follows)

　　

Basque Pastry Cream

1 1/2 cups whole milk

　　3 extra-large egg yolks

　　6 tablespoons granulated sugar

　　2 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted

　　3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

　　2 teaspoons dark rum

　　2 teaspoons Armagnac

　　1 teaspoon orange-flower water

　　1 teaspoon pure almond extract

　　

Armagnac Prunes

1/2 pound pitted prunes

　　1 1/2 cups hot black tea

　　1/2 cup granulated sugar

　　1/4 cup Armagnac

　　

Step 1

Combine the dry ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. With the mixer running at low, add the butter. When the butter has been incorporated, add the egg, 2 egg yolks, the lemon zest, and the Pernod. Mix at low speed until the dough just comes together. Divide the dough into two-thirds and one-third portions. Wrap each portion in plastic and refrigerate at least 2 hours.

　　

Step 2

Lightly butter a 9-inch ring mold (1 inch high) and set it on a baking sheet.

　　

Step 3

Roll out the larger piece of dough on a lightly floured board into an 11-inch circle, 1/3 inch thick. (The dough may be a little hard to work with. Don’t worry if you have to patch it together—when it bakes, the mistakes will disappear.) Roll the dough around the rolling pin, and then unroll over the ring and gently tuck the dough into the corners, letting the excess fall over the edges. Fill the shell with the cooled Basque pastry cream. Roll out the remaining piece of dough into a circle slightly larger than the pan. Place the dough over the pastry cream. Roll the rolling pin over the top of the ring to seal the bottom and top layers of dough together. Chill for 30 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

　　

Step 5

Whisk the remaining egg yolk with a little water, and brush the gâteau with this egg wash. Score the top of the cake with paring knife in a crisscross or harlequin pattern.

　　

Step 6

Bake about 35 minutes, until golden brown.

　　

Step 7

Whip the cream and crème fraîche until it holds soft peaks.

　　

Step 8

Cut six wedges from the gâteau. Spoon some Armagnac prunes and their syrup over each piece, and finish with a dollop of whipped cream.

　　

Basque Pastry Cream

Step 9

In a medium heavy-bottomed pot, bring the milk to a boil, and then turn off the heat. Whisk the egg yolks together in a medium bowl, and then whisk in the sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Continue whisking until the mixture thickens and is a pale yellow color. Whisk in the hot milk a few tablespoons at a time, progressing to a slow steady stream. Return the mixture to the stove, and cook over medium heat, whisking until thickened.

　　

Step 10

Strain into a baking dish or bowl, and place a piece of plastic wrap on the surface of the custard to keep it from forming a skin. Poke a few holes in the plastic to let the heat escape. Cool it in the refrigerator. When the pastry cream has cooled, stir in the rum, Armagnac, orange-flower water, and almond extract.

　　

Armagnac Prunes

Step 11

Place the prunes in a bowl and pour the hot tea over them. Cover and steep 1 hour. Strain the prunes, reserving 1/4 cup tea. Place the tea and sugar in a small sauce pot, bring to a boil, and cook 2 minutes. Pour the syrup over the prunes. Add the Armagnac to the pot, bring it just to a boil, and pour it over the prunes. Cover and steep at least 30 minutes. Cool the prunes and store them in the refrigerator.

　　

Note

Step 12

The pastry dough must be made at least 2 hours before assembling the gâteau. It’s a good idea to make the pastry cream in advance as well, as it must be chilled before using.

　　Cooks' Note

　　The pastry dough must be made at least 2 hours before assembling the gâteau. It’s a good idea to make the pastry cream in advance as well, as it must be chilled before using.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)