A glance at the ingredients might convince you this is an Italian dish. But this sweet-and-spicy concoction, laced with nam pla (see page 500 for information on this Thai fish sauce), could not be less Mediterranean in character. It’s great with fillets, but you can also make it with whole fish; see the variation.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 small fresh or dried chiles

　　3 tablespoons corn, grapeseed, or other neutral oil

　　2 pounds fillets of grouper, red snapper, black sea bass, or catfish

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　2 garlic cloves, minced

　　1 medium onion, diced

　　3 medium tomatoes, cored and chopped

　　1 tablespoon nam pla

　　2 teaspoons sugar

　　1/4 cup fish or chicken stock, preferably homemade (page 161 or 160), or water

　　1 scallion, trimmed and chopped

　　1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

If you have fresh chiles, stem and seed them; if dried, soak in warm water for a few minutes until softened, then remove the stems and seeds. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper, then slide them into the hot oil. Cook, turning once, until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the fish with a slotted spatula and drain on paper towels.

　　

Step 2

Add the garlic, onion, and chiles to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until they release their juices, about 5 minutes. Stir in the nam pla, sugar, and stock.

　　

Step 3

After the sauce reduces and thickens slightly, about 5 minutes, add the scallion and return the fish to the pan. Cook just until the fish is heated through, about 5 minutes. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

　　

Whole Fish in Spicy Tomato Sauce

Step 4

Prepare the chiles as directed. Use about a 3-pound grouper, sea bass, or red snapper, gutted and scaled. Make 3 shallow cuts, from top to bottom, on each side of the fish. Put 1/2 cup oil in a nonstick skillet that will accommodate the fish and turn the heat to high. A few minutes later, when the oil is hot—a pinch of flour will sizzle—dredge the fish heavily on both sides in flour, then gently lower it into the oil. Cook until golden brown on both sides, turning just once and adjusting the heat if necessary to prevent scorching. Transfer the fish to a platter and pour off the oil; wipe it out with a towel. Return the skillet to the stove over medium-high heat and add the 3 tablespoons of oil. Proceed to step 2. In step 3, when you return the fish to the skillet, partially cover the skillet with a lid or a piece of foil, and cook the fish without turning for 10 to 15 minutes, until the meat near the bone is pearly white. Serve, scooping the meat from the bone and serving it with the sauce.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.