In Sicily, the most popular fish to cook alla matalotta is whatever was just caught fresh! The aromatics and technique remain the same, and the outcome is always delicious. (Interestingly, it is one of the few Sicilian fish preparations that call for celery.) My top fish recommendation for this recipe is grouper; it has flesh that cooks and stays intact in the sauce. Halibut, striped bass, and black bass are other good choices. A whole black bass cooked alla matalotta is delicious—just mind the bones. Serve with grilled bread, couscous (page 304), or panelle (page 281). You can make this ahead of time and reheat to serve—just take the pot off the heat a bit before the fish and sauce are thoroughly cooked.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　2 pounds skinless grouper fillet

　　1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or to taste

　　1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing

　　All-purpose flour for dredging (1/2 cup or so)

　　1 onion, thinly sliced (1 cup)

　　4 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

　　1/2 cup finely chopped celery heart and leaves

　　1/2 teaspoon peperoncino flakes, or to taste

　　1 cup Sicilian or other large green brine-cured olives, pitted and cut in half

　　2 tablespoons small capers, drained

　　2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand

　　3 cups hot water, or as needed

　　6 large fresh basil leaves, shredded

　　3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

　　

Recommended Equipment

A heavy-bottomed saucepan or sauté pan, 13 inches or wider, with a cover

　　

Step 1

Slice the grouper fillet into six chunks, roughly equal in size, and season with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt.

　　

Step 2

Pour the 1/2 cup olive oil into the big saucepan, and set it over medium-high heat. Dredge the fish chunks in flour, shake off any excess, and lay them in the hot oil. Cook for about 1 1/2 minutes, until opaque on the underside; turn the pieces and lightly color the second side. Remove the grouper chunks with a spatula to a platter.

　　

Step 3

Scatter the onion slices in the pan, stir, and scrape any bits left in the pan. Toss in the garlic cloves and the chopped celery, stir well, and season with the peperoncino and another 1/4 teaspoon salt. Stir for a couple of minutes as the vegetables sizzle, strew olives and capers in the pan, and stir until they’re sizzling too.

　　

Step 4

Pour in the crushed tomatoes and 3 cups of hot water. Turn up the heat, and stir up all the vegetables as the liquid comes to a boil. Adjust the heat to keep it bubbling, stir in the shredded basil and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and partially cover the pan.

　　

Step 5

Simmer the sauce for 10 minutes or so, then lay the grouper chunks in the pan in one layer, and pour in any fish juices that accumulated in the platter. The chunks should be nearly covered by the sauce; add more hot water if necessary. Heat rapidly back to the boil, then simmer gently, partially covered. Shake the pan occasionally to distribute the sauce and slosh it over the fish.

　　

Step 6

When the grouper is tender and the sauce is slightly thickened and flavorful, 20 to 25 minutes, turn off the heat. Taste, and adjust the seasoning. Just before serving, drizzle over it a tablespoon or two of olive oil, and sprinkle the parsley all over the top.

　　From Lidia's Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Copyright (c) 2007 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York.