There is something particularly irresistible about food that’s wrapped up like a parcel in an edible casing—especially when there’s a little something inside that you’re not expecting. For me, the subtle, slightly briny flavor of grape leaves represents the best of the Mediterranean. In this dish, there’s an appealing exchange between the fish, grape leaves, and couscous that results in a moist, aromatic, and savory package enhanced by a tangy olive vinaigrette and roasted red pepper garnish. The feta cheese is a tasty addition and a pretty garnish, but it’s not necessary. When it comes to choosing fish, a thick, super-fresh fillet of mahi mahi, grouper, amberjack, or snapper would be ideal.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　

Couscous and Red Pepper Garnish

1/2 cup couscous

　　2 red bell peppers

　　Grated zest of 2 lemons and 1 orange

　　1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

　　2 scallions, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, minced

　　1 tablespoon olive oil

　　Salt and pepper

　　

Grouper

1 (16-ounce) jar grape leaves

　　4 (5-ounce) fillets of grouper, cut 3/4 inch thick

　　Salt and pepper

　　Cooked couscous

　　1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

　　1/2 cup dry white wine

　　1 bay leaf

　　Juice of 2 lemons and 1 orange

　　1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

　　1 tablespoon chopped shallots

　　1/4 cup pitted kalamata olives, quartered lengthwise

　　1/4 cup pitted green olives

　　Red Pepper Garnish

　　2 tsp chopped fresh rosemary, for garnish

　　2 ounces crumbled feta cheese, for garnish

　　

Couscous and Red Pepper Garnish

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

　　

Step 2

Place the couscous in a large bowl and pour 1/2 cup boiling water over it. Cover and set aside for about 5 minutes. Then stir the grains, breaking up any lumps with your fingers. Char the peppers (see roasting peppers, p. 122) and peel, seed, and cut them into large triangles. Set them aside for garnish, and finely chop any scrap pieces that are left. Add the scraps to the couscous with the lemon and orange zest, cilantro, mint, parsley, scallions, garlic, and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

　　

Grouper

Step 3

Blanch 8 grape leaves in simmering water for about 3 minutes. Remove and drain. Cut off the stem ends.

　　

Step 4

Season the fish with salt and pepper. Place two overlapping grape leaves (dull sides facing up), in front of you, and top with a few spoons of couscous mixture. Center the fillet bottom-side up on the couscous, then fold first the sides, then the top and bottom of the grape leaves over the fish to enclose it like a package. Place the “package” seam-side down in a roasting pan with a lid. Repeat with remaining fillets, brush each wrapped fish with olive oil, and pour wine and 1/2 cup water over the fish. Add the bay leaf, cover, and bake 15-17 minutes, basting from time to time. While the fish is baking, place the reserved lemon and orange juice in a small saucepan with the vinegar. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced to 3 tablespoons of liquid. Pour into a small bowl and whisk in the 1/3 cup olive oil, shallots, and olives, and season to taste. Place the fish on a platter or individual plates. Sauce with the vinaigrette, and garnish with the red pepper triangles, rosemary, and feta cheese.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.