Grits (made from dried hulled hominy) are at the heart of many a southern breakfast. Texture is the hallmark of good grits — they should be slightly loose but not too runny on the plate.

　　Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4

　　5 1/2 cups water

　　1 cup white old-fashioned stone-ground grits

　　1 teaspoon salt

　　1/4 lb tasso (Cajun-cured smoked pork) or country ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice

　　1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter

　　Accompaniment: fried eggs

　　

Step 1

Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a 4-quart heavy saucepan and stir in grits and salt. Return to a boil, stirring frequently.

　　

Step 2

Reduce heat and simmer grits, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until very thick and most of water is absorbed, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Reduce heat further and cook grits at a bare simmer until cooked through, about 1 hour 10 minutes, stirring frequently and adding remaining 1 1/2 cups water (1/4 cup at a time) whenever grits become very thick.

　　

Step 4

Add tasso, butter, and salt and pepper to taste, stirring until butter is melted.