Most people have heard horror stories about the conditions under which calves are raised for veal. Fortunately, today there are thoughtful ranchers raising free-range veal without antibiotics. This contemporary veal won’t taste or look like the pale, white meat your grandparents were accustomed to. The free-range veal we serve at Lucques is rosy red in color, with more character and flavor than its inhumanely treated counterpart. It’s worth pursuing. To keep the chops juicy, grill them medium-rare to medium.

　　

Ingredients

6 free-range veal chops, about 10 ounces each (see Sources)

　　1 tablespoon rosemary leaves

　　1 tablespoon thyme leaves

　　2 cloves garlic, smashed

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 bunch arugula, cleaned

　　Salsa verde (see page 132)

　　Summer squash gratin with salsa verde and Gruyère (recipe follows)

　　Fleur de sel and freshly cracked black pepper

　　

Summer Squash Gratin with Salsa Verde and Gruyère

2 pounds summer squash

　　1 1/2cups fresh breadcrumbs

　　3 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　3/4 cup sliced shallots

　　1 teaspoon minced garlic

　　1 tablespoon thyme leaves

　　1/2 cup salsa verde (see page 132)

　　1 cup grated Gruyère cheese

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Season the veal chops with the rosemary, thyme, smashed garlic, and olive oil. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

　　

Step 2

Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before cooking, and remove the veal chops from the refrigerator to allow them to come to room temperature.

　　

Step 3

When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, season both sides of the veal chops generously with fleur de sel and cracked black pepper. Place them on the grill, and cook 4 to 5 minutes per side, rotating a couple of times on each side, to sear nicely. Cook until medium-rare to medium—you can peek inside at the bone to check that the meat is still a little pink.

　　

Step 4

Scatter the arugula on a large platter, and place the chops on top. Spoon about a tablespoon of salsa verde over each one, and drizzle a little more over the greens. Serve the summer squash gratin and the extra salsa verde on the side.

　　

Summer Squash Gratin with Salsa Verde and Gruyère

Step 5

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

　　

Step 6

Cut the squash into 1/8-inch-thick slices. If you’re using long zucchini-type summer squash, slice them on the diagonal. Toss the slices in a large bowl with 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and let sit 10 minutes.

　　

Step 7

Place the breadcrumbs in a bowl.

　　

Step 8

Heat a small sauté pan over medium heat for 1 minute. Swirl in the butter and cook a few minutes, until it browns and smells nutty. Pour the brown butter over the breadcrumbs (being sure to scrape all the brown bits into the bowl with a rubber spatula). Wait a minute or so for the butter to cool, and toss well.

　　

Step 9

Drain the squash and transfer it to a large mixing bowl. Add the shallots, minced garlic, thyme, 1/2 cup salsa verde, and some pepper. Toss to combine, and add the cheese and half the butter-coated breadcrumbs. Toss again, and taste for seasoning. (The raw garlic will taste strong at this point but will be delicious when cooked.)

　　

Step 10

Place the squash in a pretty 9-by-9-inch (or equivalent) gratin dish. Scatter the remaining breadcrumbs over the top, and bake 35 to 40 minutes, until the squash is tender and the top is crisp.

　　

Note

Step 11

Season the chops with herbs and garlic overnight. You can make the gratin ahead of time and wait until just before serving to bake it. Light the grill when the gratin goes in the oven. If you like, make the salsa verde a few hours ahead of time. You will need 1 1/2 batches salsa verde for the gratin and the finished dish.

　　Cooks' Note

　　Season the chops with herbs and garlic overnight. You can make the gratin ahead of time and wait until just before serving to bake it. Light the grill when the gratin goes in the oven. If you like, make the salsa verde a few hours ahead of time. You will need 1 1/2 batches salsa verde for the gratin and the finished dish.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)