I associate chestnuts with winter scenes that while I live in Southern California exist only in my imagination: snuggling up by the fireplace while the snow falls lightly and chestnuts roast on that proverbial open fire. One Christmas Eve, after a few hot toddies and with visions of chestnuts dancing in my head, I revisited my family’s traditional stuffing, determined to make my winter chestnut obsession a reality. For me, the stuffing, not the turkey or roast beef, has always been the highlight of holiday feasts. In fact, when I was a kid, one of my big culinary promotions was when I finally got to take charge of the stuffing. For the first time, my mom gave me carte blanche with the spice cabinet. I pillaged her Spice Island jars and doctored up the Pepperidge Farm box mix, experimenting with how to make things taste better. Now, as a chef, I’ve learned that seasoning is one of the keys to making all things, stuffing included, taste their best. Good stuffing starts with a great loaf of bread, torn into croutons, tossed with a generous amount of olive oil, and baked until crispy on the outside and soft in the center. Then I add lots of onion, pancetta, rosemary, fennel, chile, thyme, lemon zest—and chestnuts, of course. The biggest mistake people make at home is underseasoning their stuffing. Don’t be afraid to spice it up with plenty of vegetables, herbs, and seasonings. And remember to taste as you go.

　　

Ingredients

6 free-range veal chops, about 10 ounces each

　　1 tablespoon rosemary leaves

　　2 tablespoons thyme leaves

　　2 cloves garlic, smashed

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 tablespoons fleur de sel

　　1 scant tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper

　　2 ounces arugula, cleaned

　　Brian’s pickled golden raisins (recipe follows)

　　Chestnut stuffing (recipe follows)

　　Kosher salt

　　

Brian’s Pickled Golden Raisins

2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

　　1/2 cup granulated sugar

　　3 tablespoons champagne vinegar

　　1 chile de árbol, crumbled

　　1 bay leaf

　　1/3 pound golden raisins

　　1 teaspoon thyme leaves

　　1-inch sprig rosemary

　　1 teaspoon kosher salt

　　

Chestnut Stuffing

1 pound country-style bread

　　1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 tablespoon fennel seeds

　　1/2 cup finely diced pancetta

　　1 small sprig rosemary

　　1 chile de árbol, broken in half

　　1 cup finely diced onion

　　1 cup finely diced fennel

　　1 tablespoon thyme leaves

　　2 teaspoons finely chopped lemon zest

　　1/2 cup white wine

　　1 1/2 cups chicken stock

　　4 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　2 cups steamed chestnuts, crumbled with your hands

　　1 extra-large egg, beaten

　　2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Season the veal chops with the rosemary, thyme, garlic, and olive oil. Cover, and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

　　

Step 2

Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before cooking, and remove the veal chops from the refrigerator to come to room temperature.

　　

Step 3

When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, season both sides of the veal chops generously with fleur de sel and cracked black pepper. Place the chops on the grill, and cook 4 to 5 minutes per side, rotating once or twice, to sear nicely. Cook until medium-rare to medium—you can peek inside at the bone to check that the meat is still a little pink.

　　

Step 4

Scatter the arugula leaves over a large platter. Place the chops on top, and spoon the golden raisins over. Pass the stuffing at the table.

　　

Brian’s Pickled Golden Raisins

Step 5

Place the mustard seeds in a small pan over medium heat, and toast a few minutes, shaking the pan often, until the seeds just start to pop.

　　

Step 6

Combine the mustard seeds with 1 cup water and the rest of the ingredients in a small nonaluminum pot. Bring to a boil, and turn the heat down to a low simmer. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, until the liquid has reduced by half. Let the raisins cool, and store them in the liquid in the refrigerator.

　　

Chestnut Stuffing

Step 7

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

　　

Step 8

Cut the crust off the bread and tear the remaining loaf into 1-inch pieces. Using your hands, toss with 6 tablespoons olive oil, squeezing the bread with your hands to help it absorb the olive oil. Toast on a baking sheet 12 to 15 minutes, tossing often, until the croutons are golden brown and crispy on the outside but still a little soft and tender inside. When the croutons have cooled, place them in a large bowl.

　　

Step 9

Meanwhile, toast the fennel seeds in a small pan over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan often, until the seeds release their aroma and turn a light golden brown. Coarsely grind the seeds with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.

　　

Step 10

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the pancetta. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Turn the heat down to medium, add the rosemary sprig and the chile, and let them sizzle in the pan a minute. Add the onion, fennel, fennel seeds, and thyme. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grindings of pepper. Sauté about 8 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly caramelized. Stir in the lemon zest, and add the entire mixture to the croutons.

　　

Step 11

Return the pan to high heat and pour in the white wine. Bring the wine to a boil, and reduce by three-quarters. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Pour the hot liquid over the croutons and vegetables, and toss well to combine.

　　

Step 12

Wipe the pan out with paper towels, and return it to the stove over medium heat. Swirl in 2 tablespoons butter, and when it foams, add the chestnuts. Sauté 4 to 5 minutes, until the chestnuts are golden and sizzling in the butter. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and add to the stuffing. Stir to combine, and taste for seasoning. Add the egg and parsley. Toss well, and put the stuffing in a ceramic baking dish or casserole. Cover with foil, and bake 40 minutes. Remove the foil, and top the stuffing with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small cubes. Return the stuffing to the oven, and cook about 20 minutes, until crispy on top.

　　

Note

Step 13

You can bake the stuffing the day before. Reheat covered with aluminum foil, and then uncover and top with little pats of butter. Return to the oven, and bake until nice and crispy on top. The pickled raisins can be made long in advance.

　　

Step 14

The notion of roasting chestnuts over an open fire is picturesque and romantic, but in reality it’s a tedious and very time-consuming chore to peel them once they’re roasted. Instead, I use steamed chestnuts sold in a jar, available at quality supermarkets and gourmet shops.

　　Cooks' Note

　　You can bake the stuffing the day before. Reheat covered with aluminum foil, and then uncover and top with little pats of butter. Return to the oven, and bake until nice and crispy on top. The pickled raisins can be made long in advance.<br/><br/>The notion of ro

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)