Tuna is usually overcooked in the Middle East. But the best way of eating it is seared on the outside and raw on the inside, which makes it deliciously, meltingly tender. Otherwise it quickly dries out. It can be brushed with oil and cooked on the barbecue or under the broiler, but an easy and perfect way is to pan-grill it. The dressing is a glamorized version of the ubiquitous oil-and-lemon one. It is good with all kinds of fish.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　8 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil

　　4 tuna steaks

　　Salt and pepper

　　Juice of 1 lemon

　　2 tomatoes, diced

　　2 tablespoons capers, soaked to remove excess salt or vinegar (optional)

　　

Step 1

Film a grill pan or heavy nonstick skillet with oil. Put in the tuna steaks and cook over high heat for 1–2 minutes on either side, depending on their thickness. You should see the flesh still dark inside as it pales on the outside.

　　

Step 2

For the dressing, mix the rest of the ingredients with the remaining olive oil. Heat through to not-quite-boiling point and pour over the fish as you serve.

　　

Variation

Step 3

Add 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, or 2 crushed garlic cloves and 1/4–1/2 teaspoon harissa (page 464), to the dressing.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf