The fact that our great-grandchildren may never eat a real seafood dinner gives those of us who still eat fish a responsibility not to put blue cheese on it. I like to serve this with pickled beets (page 142) and the potato salad that follows. This treatment would work for almost any flavorful, rich fish.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　4 (8-ounce) Spanish mackerel fillets, skin on

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　Finely ground dried red chiles, such as de Arbol

　　Extra virgin olive oil

　　Green Sauce (recipe follows)

　　

Green Sauce

2 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

　　1 cup loosely packed mixed fresh tender herb leaves, such as dill, tarragon, chives, lemon balm, basil, spearmint, chervil, and/or fennel fronds

　　2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced

　　1 tablespoon finely chopped brined capers

　　2 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped

　　1 hard-boiled egg yolk, finely grated

　　1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　Chile flakes

　　1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

　　Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

　　(makes 1 generous cup)

　　

Step 1

Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

　　

Step 2

Season both sides of each fillet generously with salt, pepper, and chile. Drizzle both sides with a little olive oil.

　　

Step 3

When the grill is very hot but the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, put the mackerel, skin side down, on the grill. Cook for at least 2 minutes before moving it at all. In the meantime, watch for flare-ups, extinguishing them with a little water from a squirt bottle (beer works, too). It will take 4 to 6 minutes to cook the skin side. When the skin is crispy and deep golden brown, gently flip the fillets with a spatula and again don’t move. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Serve with green sauce.

　　

Green Sauce

Step 4

Chop the parsley, herbs, and sliced scallions very fine. Put them in a small bowl and add the capers, anchovies, egg yolk, salt, pepper, and chile flakes to taste. Mix well, and slowly drizzle in the oil, stirring. Add the lemon zest and juice. If the sauce seems too thick, add a touch more oil. Adjust the seasoning if needed.

　　Cooking in the Moment