The plump pink flesh of a salmon needs so little to bring it to life that many people call it quits before they’ve tested its limits. The smoky-sweet flakes of Cyprus hardwood smoked lend an explosive crunch that brings a whole new vocabulary to the language of fish. The salt’s cleanliness penetrates through the richer flavors, adding depth to breadth; its pastrylike crackle gives the palate something firm to hold onto amid the fish’s sometime incessant unctuousness; and its lilt of golden smoke brings an oakiness that incandesces on your palate long after the fish has left the fire.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　1 tablespoon black sesame seeds

　　1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

　　1 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns, green or pink or mixed

　　1/4 teaspoon powdered ginger

　　1 3/4 pounds wild salmon fillet (about 1 1/4 inches thick), pin bones and skin removed

　　1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, preferably black sesame oil

　　4 two-finger pinches Cyprus hardwood smoked flake salt

　　2 sesame leaves, coarsely chopped, or 1 scallion, trimmed and finely sliced

　　

Step 1

Preheat a covered grill to medium heat (about 375°F).

　　

Step 2

Combine the black and white sesame seeds in a small bowl. Crush the peppercorns with the flat side of a broad knife, like a cleaver or a chef’s knife. Add the pepper and the ginger to the sesame seeds and stir to combine. Set aside.

　　

Step 3

Coat both sides of the salmon with 2 teaspoons of the sesame oil. Scatter the sesame seed mixture all over both sides of the salmon and press lightly into the flesh.

　　

Step 4

Brush the grill grate thoroughly with a wire brush to clean it, and coat it lightly with oil. Grill the fish for 10 minutes with the lid down, turning halfway through, until the surface is crisp and browned and the flesh feels slightly spongy when pressed at its thickest spot. Gently pull apart the flesh at the thickest part; the center should still be a translucent, darker pink. Transfer to a platter using a wide spatula.

　　

Step 5

Drizzle the remaining teaspoon of sesame oil over the fish and sprinkle with the salt. Scatter the chopped sesame leaves over the top and serve.

　　Salted