The Vendy Awards began in 2004 as a benefit to raise funds for New York street food vendors who were struggling to establish their right to operate in the city. The issue in dispute was that the city wanted to tax the street vendors even though they didn’t operate from brick-and-mortar venues. (The issue of who has to pay tax to whom is, of course, age-old.) Fortunately, it was finally settled, and the awards became an annual New York City celebration of street food, with an informal competition for best stand decided by popular vote. On a given day in early autumn, vendors from all around the city assemble in a park (a different one each year) and proffer their take-away delights to an ever-growing number of fans. The flavors and aromas of Pakistani and Indian cooking aced the show three out of four times, sort of: In 2006, Sammy the Halal Man won the prize for his Pakistani chicken and rice biriyani. In 2007, the Dosa Man won for his vegan dosa. In 2008, though the Calexico burrito and taco vendor won the juried prize, the popular vote went to Biriyani Cart’s Meru Sikder for his Bangladeshi lamb and rice dish. In other words, the populist Vendys confirm the wide appeal of foods from countries along the ancient spice route. Note: You can also serve the meatballs and topping and garnish elements as a biriyani dish, over steamed basmati rice rather than folded into a flatbread.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　

Sausage

1 pound ground lamb

　　2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

　　1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic, chopped with a little salt

　　1 teaspoon ground cumin

　　1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

　　4 cardamom seeds

　　1 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1 tablespoon water

　　3 tablespoons butter

　　2 yellow or white onions, very thinly sliced

　　1 teaspoon cumin seeds

　　6 Middle Eastern or South Asian flatbreads, such as pita breads, naan, or chapati

　　1 cup plain yogurt

　　12 or so tender fresh cilantro sprigs

　　2 tablespoons finely shredded fresh mint leaves

　　

Step 1

To make the sausage, place all the ingredients in a medium bowl, and knead with your hands until thoroughly blended. Use right away, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

　　

Step 2

To caramelize the onions, melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and stir to mix. Cook slowly, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking, until partially golden brown, about 15 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and continue cooking, stirring often, until thoroughly browned and beginning to “fry” but still pliable, about 3 minutes. Set aside until ready to serve.

　　

Step 3

Prepare a medium-hot grill.

　　

Step 4

Place the cumin seeds in a small, dry skillet over medium-high heat or on a microwave-safe plate and toast until fragrant and beginning to pop, 2 to 3 minutes by either method. Set aside.

　　

Step 5

Form the sausage into 3/4-inch balls. Place them on the grill directly over the heat and cook, turning two or three times, until sizzling and firm, about 6 minutes total. Transfer them to a plate and keep warm. Place the flatbreads on the grill and char briefly on both sides.

　　

Step 6

To serve, place 2 or 3 sausage balls in the center of a flatbread. Top with a generous dollop of yogurt, and then some of the caramelized onion, cilantro, and mint. Sprinkle the toasted cumin seeds overall, fold, and serve.

　　Sausage