This is simply one of my favorite dishes, and it has a legendary place in the history of my marriage. My wife was not a fan of the vegetable—or of any vegetable. Fan might not be the right word. It's not that she just didn't like them; she actively campaigned against them, prosecuting them, all guilty as charged, although on scant evidence.

　　It was this simple dish that got her to at least begin to consider laying down her sword. The crisp texture, the smoky, charred burn, the transparency of the whole process got her to let her guard down. And now it is a staple. So you might say that this recipe is a gateway vegetable.

　　Other kale varieties are fine for this, but lacinato is the only variety that crisps rather than wilts, allowing you to get great texture very quickly. This is wonderful with a little Chunky Almond Oil drizzled over the top.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4

　　2 bunches lacinato kale (also known as black, dinosaur, or Tuscan kale)

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　Kosher salt

　　

Step 1

Strip away and discard the stems of the kale. Tear the leaves into large bite-size pieces and toss them with the olive oil and a good pinch of salt.

　　

Step 2

Cook the leaves briefly over a medium fire seasoned with chunks of maple or oak. They will begin to burn and sizzle almost immediately. This is a good thing. Resist the temptation to turn them; the burn is good; the burn is your friend. After 4 to 5 minutes, turn them once to give a slight char to the wilted leaves that have been on top. Cook for another minute or two, and then remove them from the grill. That's it. Serve immediately.

　　Reprinted with permission from Where There's Smoke: Simple, Sustainable, Delicious Grilling by Barton Seaver. Copyright © 2013 by Barton Seaver. Photography by Katie Stoop. Published by Sterling Epicure, an imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.