Active Time

　　30 min

　　Total Time

　　2 1/2 hr

　　The perfume of dried spices combines with fresh cilantro to telegraph the taste of Morocco in an assertive rub that was made for the grill.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

　　1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

　　1 tablespoon cumin seeds

　　1 tablespoon coriander seeds

　　1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

　　3 whole cloves

　　2 tablespoons paprika (not hot)

　　1/2 teaspoon cayenne

　　2 teaspoons ground ginger

　　1 teaspoon salt

　　2 cups coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

　　1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　8 semi-boneless quail

　　Accompaniment: lemon wedges

　　

Special Equipment

8 (12-inch) wooden skewers, soaked in warm water 1 hour; an electric coffee/spice grinder

　　

Step 1

Break cinnamon stick in half, then finely grind cinnamon, cumin, coriander, peppercorns, and cloves together in grinder. Transfer spice mixture to a large bowl and whisk in paprika, cayenne, ginger, salt, cilantro, garlic, and oil. Add quail, turning to coat, then transfer to a large sealable plastic bag and marinate, chilled, 2 hours.

　　

Step 2

Thirty minutes before cooking, prepare grill for cooking over indirect heat with medium-hot charcoal (moderate heat for gas); see "Grilling Procedure," below.

　　

Step 3

Arrange 2 quail on a work surface side by side, breast sides up, with drumsticks closest to you. Horizontally thread 1 skewer through drumsticks and the lower carcasses of birds. Thread a second skewer, parallel to first, through wings and upper carcasses, then arrange quail so that there is 1 inch of space between the birds. Repeat procedure on remaining quail, 2 at a time.

　　

Step 4

Lightly season quail with salt, then grill on lightly oiled grill rack, covered only if using a gas grill, turning over once, 5 to 6 minutes total. Serve quail with lemon wedges.

　　Cooks' notes:

　　· If you can't grill outdoors, quail can be cooked in a hot lightly oiled well-seasoned large (2-burner) ridged grill pan over moderate heat. · Grilling Procedure. Direct-Heat Grilling Instructions: If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal. When charcoal turns grayish white (about 15 minutes after lighting), hold your hand 5 inches above grill rack to determine heat for charcoal as follows: Hot: when you can hold your hand there for 1 to 2 seconds Medium-hot: 3 to 4 seconds Low: 5 to 6 seconds If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then, if necessary, reduce to heat specified in recipe. · Indirect-Heat Grilling Instructions: If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom and lid of grill. Light a large chimney starter full of charcoal (preferably hardwood). When coals are lit, dump them out across bottom rack, leaving free of coals a space slightly larger than the size of the item to be grilled, and banking coals across the remaining space so that coals are about 3 times higher against side of grill (you may have to add additional unlit charcoal). See Direct-Heat Grilling Instructions, above, to determine heat. If using a gas grill, preheat all burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then adjust heat according to recipe. Just before grilling, turn off 1 burner (middle burner if there are 3).