Delicate fresh broccoli and cauliflower from a garden or small farm don’t resemble the useful California sorts that are a fixture in our produce drawer the rest of the year, and so we enjoy them while we can. But because broccoli and cauliflower do travel and keep exceptionally well, I make these recipes year-round, just allowing for slightly longer cooking times when dealing with more mature vegetables.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　2 small bunches of tender broccoli

　　2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving

　　6 anchovy fillets, minced

　　2 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste

　　Grated zest of 1 lemon cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

　　2 teaspoons chile flakes, or to taste

　　

Step 1

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill.

　　

Step 2

Cut the broccoli lengthwise to make long florets with all of the tender stem attached. Blanch in well-salted boiling water for just 15 to 20 seconds, a little longer if the broccoli is very mature. Drain well, transfer to a medium bowl, and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, grill the broccoli to slightly char it all over.

　　

Step 3

Mix the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest, parsley, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and chile flakes in a bowl. Add the grilled broccoli, toss well, and serve with olive oil at the table for drizzling.

　　Cooking in the Moment