Shelling peas (or English peas), snap peas, and snow peas are the three most common varieties. Shelling peas are shelled, and only the peas within are eaten. Snap peas and snow peas are eaten pod and all. The tender shoots or tips of the pea vines are good to eat as well. All peas taste best when harvested while young and tender. They are the sweetest at this stage, as the sugars have not yet transformed to starch. Shelling peas have a very short season; they are only around while the cool weather of spring is here. Snap peas and snow peas can tolerate a bit of heat and will last into the early summer. Select peas that are vibrant and firm, with shiny pods. When very fresh the pods will actually squeak as they are rubbed together. Smaller peas of any variety will be tastier than larger ones. The edible-pod varieties, especially snow peas, are best when the peas are tiny, almost undeveloped. As they mature and become too stringy to eat whole, sugar snap peas can be shucked like shelling peas. To prepare snap and snow peas, snap back each end and pull it down the side of the pod to remove any strings. Pea shoots need only to be picked over for any yellow leaves and then rinsed and drained before being sautéed or steamed.

　　

Ingredients

4 servings

　　3/4 pound green peas

　　3/4 pound asparagus

　　2 tablespoons butter

　　3 spring onions, trimmed and sliced (about 3/4 cup)

　　1/2 cup water

　　Salt

　　1 tablespoon butter

　　1 tablespoon chopped parsley or chervil

　　

Step 1

Shell: 3/4 pound green peas

　　

Step 2

Snap the ends from: 3/4 pound asparagus.

　　

Step 3

Slice, on a slight diagonal, into slices between 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick. Leave the tips 1 1/2 inches long; split them in half lengthwise if they are thick. Melt, in a heavy pan over medium heat: 2 tablespoons butter.

　　

Step 4

Add: 3 spring onions, trimmed and sliced (about 3/4 cup).

　　

Step 5

Cook for 4 or 5 minutes, until soft. Add the sliced asparagus and shelled peas with: 1/2 cup water, Salt.

　　

Step 6

Cook for 4 or 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Swirl in: 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley or chervil.

　　

Step 7

Taste for salt and adjust as needed.

　　

Variations

Step 8

Tender young fava beans can be substituted for some or all of the peas.

　　

Step 9

Use sugar snap peas trimmed and sliced on the diagonal instead of the shelling peas.

　　

Step 10

Slice 1 or 2 stalks of green garlic and add with the asparagus and peas.

　　The Art of Simple Food