Green papaya salad in all its regional variations - often flavored with pork, beef, or shrimp (as below)-is hugely popular throughout Southeast Asia. The dish is made from unripe Southeast Asian papayas, which have firm white flesh and white seeds. The current popularity of Vietnamese and Thai food in the United States has increased these papayas' availability, although it is still generally limited to Asian markets. Such papayas can grow to the size of cantaloupes or larger and range in shape from oval to round. Look for rock-hard dark green fruit without a trace of pink or yellow blush. If you don't see any, ask (some shopkeepers do not display them).

　　Those who can't find the right kind of papaya might skip the salad or substitute seedless (European) cucumbers despite the repetition with the main course. Those who can find Southeast Asian green papayas will be treated to a salad that our food editors found irresistible.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4

　　1/4 pound small shrimp (about 9), shelled

　　

For dressing

1 large garlic clove, forced through a garlic press

　　3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

　　1 1/2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (preferably nuoc mam)

　　1 tablespoon sugar

　　1 small thin fresh red or green Asian chili (1 to 2 inches long) or serrano chili, or to taste, seeded and chopped fine (wear rubber gloves)

　　3/4 pound green papaya, peeled, seeded, and coarsely shredded, preferably in a food processor (about 3 cups)

　　1 carrot, shredded fine

　　1/3 cup fresh coriander leaves, washed well and spun dry

　　2 tablespoons roasted peanuts, crushed

　　

Step 1

In a small saucepan of boiling salted water cook shrimp 45 seconds to 1 minute, or until cooked through. In a colander drain shrimp and rinse under cold water to stop cooking. Halve shrimp horizontally and devein.

　　

Make dressing:

Step 2

In a large bowl whisk together dressing ingredients until sugar is dissolved.

　　

Step 3

Add shrimp, papaya, carrot, and coriander to dressing, tossing well. Salad may be made 2 hours ahead and chilled, covered. Bring salad to room temperature before serving.

　　

Step 4

Serve salad sprinkled with peanuts.