I love dishes with catchy retro names. The Green Goddess salad was invented in the 1920s by the chef of the Palace Hotel in San Francisco, who made it in honor of British actor George Arliss. The actor was a guest at the hotel while starring in a local production of William Archer’s The Green Goddess. The basic components of this classic California dressing are anchovies, mayonnaise, garlic, tarragon, parsley, and chives. I add watercress to the puréed herbs, which turns the dressing a deep emerald green and adds a clean, peppery flavor. Thick and rich, the dressing coats the romaine leaves the same way a Caesar salad dressing does. Once you have this dressing in your repertoire, you’ll find yourself using it for all sorts of things. Try a dollop over grilled fish, or spread it on bread instead of mayonnaise when making a sandwich.

　　

Ingredients

2 large heads romaine lettuce

　　1 extra-large egg yolk

　　1 cup grapeseed oil

　　1 1/4 cups flat-leaf parsley leaves

　　1 cup packed watercress, cleaned, tough stems removed

　　2 tablespoons tarragon leaves

　　3 tablespoons minced chives, plus 2 tablespoons 1/2-inch snipped chives

　　1 clove garlic, chopped

　　2 salt-packed anchovies, rinsed, bones removed

　　Juice of 1 lemon

　　1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon champagne vinegar

　　2 large ripe avocados, preferably Reed, Hass, or Bacon

　　3 Persian cucumbers or 1 hot-house cucumber

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Remove the tough outer leaves of the romaine. Trim the root and core and separate the leaves. Tear the larger leaves in half. Clean by submerging in cold water. Spin dry, and chill in the refrigerator.

　　

Step 2

Place the egg yolk in a stainless steel bowl. Slowly pour 1/4 cup of the oil in the bowl, drop by drop, whisking all the time. Continue in this manner as the mixture thickens. Once the mayonnaise has emulsified, whisk in another 1/4 cup oil in a slow, steady stream.

　　

Step 3

Purée 1 cup parsley leaves, the watercress, tarragon, and minced chives in a blender with the garlic, anchovies, lemon juice, and remaining 1/2 cup oil.

　　

Step 4

Whisk the herb purée, vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper into the mayonnaise. If the dressing seems too thick, thin it with a little water. Taste for balance and seasoning.

　　

Step 5

Cut each avocado in half lengthwise, remove the pit, and peel. Slice into long wedges. Taste the cucumbers and peel and seed them if necessary. Cut the cucumbers in half lengthwise, and cut them on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Season the avocado and cucumber generously with salt and pepper.

　　

Step 6

Place the romaine in a large salad bowl, and toss with 1 cup dressing, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and some more black pepper. Gently toss in the avocado and cucumber. Arrange on a large chilled platter, and scatter the remaining 1/4 cup parsley leaves and the snipped chives over the top.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)