Either pink or green gooseberries work well in this rendition of the traditional English dessert.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4

　　3 cups pink or green gooseberries (about 1 pound)

　　1/2 cup granulated sugar

　　1/2 cup well-chilled heavy cream

　　1/4 cup crème fraîche

　　1/4 cup superfine granulated sugar

　　

Step 1

Pull off tops and tails of gooseberries and halve berries lengthwise. In a heavy skillet cook berries and granulated sugar over moderate heat, stirring occasionally until liquid is thickened, about 5 minutes. Simmer mixture, mashing with a fork to a coarse puree, 2 minutes more. Chill puree, covered, until cold, about 1 hour, and up to 1 day.

　　

Step 2

In a bowl with an electric mixer beat heavy cream with crème fraîche until it holds soft peaks. Add superfine sugar and beat until mixture just holds stiff peaks. Fold chilled puree into cream mixture until combined well. Fool may be made 3 hours ahead and chilled, covered.