This is a rich yet exquisitely simple dish that can be at its best only if every ingredient is of top quality. The asparagus must be fresh and in season, brightly colored, and crisp, with almost a glow in the center of the stalk. If you can buy butter from Normandy, use it; for Parmesan, use only Parmigiano-Reggiano, with its full, ripe flavor. The asparagus is not actually rôtie, or roasted, but rather sautéed in butter until it has a gilded, roasted appearance. The sprinkling of chopped raw asparagus at the end adds crunch and a slightly nutty taste to a dish of silken textures and flavors.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4 as a first course or accompaniment

　　40 medium green asparagus spears (about 2 pounds), trimmed to about 5 inchesand peeled, plus tips only of 4 medium asparagus spears, coarsely chopped

　　1 tablespoon fine sea salt

　　6 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

　　freshly ground black pepper

　　4 teaspoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil, chilled

　　

Step 1

To cook the asparagus: Using kitchen string, tie the asparagus spears together in bunches of five. Bring a large pot of water, with the salt, to a rapid boil. Plunge in the asparagus bunches and cook until the tip of a knife can pierce a stalk without resistance, about 4 minutes. Remove the asparagus and pat the bunches dry, then carefully untie the strings.

　　

Step 2

Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in each of two large skillets over medium heat (if you have just one large frying pan, cook in two batches). When the butter is white and bubbly, lay the asparagus in the pans in a single layer. Roll the stalks around so that each gets well covered with butter and cook for 2 minutes or so, until they take on a shiny, "gilded" look. Sprinkle on the Parmesan and remove from the heat.

　　

Step 3

To finish the dish: Divide the asparagus among four warmed serving dishes, then scatter the chopped asparagus tips over the cooked asparagus. Sprinkle a pinch of freshly ground pepper over each serving, then drizzle 1 teaspoon of chilled olive oil in a thin filament around the edge of each plate. Serve immediately.

　　

Step 4

Variations: Instead of drizzling olive oil onto the serving plates, substitute a thin filament of highly reduced pan drippings from a roast, punctuated around each plate by 6 tiny Niçoise olives. Or garnish each plate with 4 fresh morel mushrooms that have been sautéed in butter with minced shallots.

　　Ducasse: Flavors of France by Alain Ducasse.