Apricots have a particular affinity with lamb. The early Arab Abbasid dynasty, centered in Baghdad, adopted the combination from the old Persian Empire that preceded it and created a series of dishes on the theme which they called mishmishiya (see page 255), mishmish being the Arab word for “apricot.” Apricot is still a favorite partner to lamb in modern Iran. The rest of the Middle East has adopted it to a lesser degree. You need a tart, natural variety of apricots, not a sweetened one.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　2 cups basmati rice

　　6 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil

　　1 onion, finely chopped

　　1 pound lean lamb, cut into small cubes

　　Salt and pepper

　　1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

　　1/4 teaspoon allspice

　　3/4–1 cup tart dried apricots, cut in half

　　2 tablespoons black or golden raisins

　　

Step 1

Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a colander under the cold water tap.

　　

Step 2

Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter or oil in a pan and fry the onion until golden. Add the meat and sauté gently, turning the pieces to brown them all over. Add salt and pepper, cinnamon, allspice, apricots, and raisins. Cover with water and simmer, covered, over low heat for 1–1 1/2 hours, until the meat is very tender and has absorbed the sweet-and-acid flavors of the fruit, adding water as required. Reduce the liquid at the end.

　　

Step 3

Boil the rice in a large (9–10-inch), heavy-bottomed, preferably nonstick pan for about 10 minutes, until still a little underdone. Then drain, and mix with 2 tablespoons butter or oil.

　　

Step 4

Pour the remaining butter or oil in the bottom of the pan and mix in a ladle of rice. Arrange alternate layers of rice and meat with apricot sauce, starting and ending with a layer of rice. Cover and steam gently over very low heat for 20–30 minutes, until the rice is tender. A cloth stretched underneath the lid will absorb the steam and make the rice fluffier.

　　

Step 5

For serving, see box on page 351.

　　

Variations

Step 6

You may use 4 boned and skinned portions of chicken, cut into small pieces, instead of meat. They will need only about 20 minutes’ cooking before being added to the rice.

　　

Step 7

Boil the apricots and raisins separately, in water to cover, for 10 minutes. And arrange them in a layer on top of the meat.

　　

Step 8

Add 1/4 teaspoon good-quality saffron powder or crushed threads to the melted butter before you mix it into the rice.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf