A gaznate is a crunchy cylinder filled with a very sweet and airy meringue. They were carefully stacked into a tower and commonly sold outside movie theaters. The meringue is either left white or tinted a fluorescent pink and is commonly flavored with pulque (a fermented alcoholic beverage made from the maguey plant), which many believe is essential. Pulque is practically impossible to get outside Mexico, so I made my version with mezcal. You will need noncorrosive metal tubes, which you can buy at many cooking stores or online, for wrapping the dough and frying it. Or follow the alternative method below if you can’t find the tubes.

　　

Ingredients

1 dozen

　　1/3 cup all-purpose flour

　　1/4 teaspoon baking powder

　　4 egg yolks

　　1 tablespoon confectioner’s sugar

　　1/4 cup brandy or rum

　　Vegetable oil, for frying

　　1 recipe Italian Meringue (use filling variation, page 144)

　　

Step 1

Combine the flour and baking powder in a bowl. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks lightly, then add the flour mixture and sugar and stir to combine. Add the brandy gradually and beat until a smooth, uniform dough is achieved. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for 10 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and roll out into a paper-thin rectangle, then cut into 12 rectangles. Roll onto metal tubes and dab the seams with a little water so they stick together. (If you don’t have metal tubes, wrap the dough around a ball of aluminum foil, and keep them open in the fryer using a chopstick or skewer.)

　　

Step 3

Pour oil into a heavy skillet to a depth of 4 inches and heat to 350°F. Fry the gaznates until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes, turning them carefully to fry evenly. Drain on paper bags or towels, allow to cool slightly, and then remove the metal tubes. (These can be made a day in advance without filling them.)

　　

Step 4

Prepare the meringue as directed. When the meringue is cool, pipe it into the fried cylinders, making sure they are filled evenly all the way through (if you don’t have a piping bag, use a resealable plastic bag and cut off one corner). Serve immediately.

　　

How the Gaznate Got Its Name

Step 5

This confection is named after the gaznate, or windpipe, because it is similar in shape.

　　Reprinted with permission from My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats © 2010 by Fany Gerson. Photographs by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.Buy the full book from Penguin Random House, Amazon, or Bookshop.