Homemade mayonnaise is so superior to store-bought that it is well worth the effort. Some people are intimidated by the thought of making a mayonnaise, but it is a skill easily mastered. A mayonnaise made with garlic, or aïoli, is one of my favorite sauces for almost everything. In the fall and winter months, garlic cloves may have a green sprouting germ in the center. Cut each clove in half lengthwise before pounding, and remove the bitter germ.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 1 cup

　　2 or 3 garlic cloves

　　Salt

　　1 egg yolk

　　About 1/2 teaspoon water

　　1 cup olive oil

　　

Step 1

Peel and slice the garlic. Put it in a mortar along with a pinch of salt, and pound into a smooth paste.

　　

Step 2

In a medium bowl, whisk together about half the garlic, the egg yolk, and about 1/2 teaspoon water (adding a bit of water to the egg yolk at the outset helps to stabilize the mixture). Slowly dribble the oil into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. As the egg yolk absorbs the oil, the mixture will thicken and lighten in color. When it reaches that point, you can add the oil a little faster, still whisking continuously. If the mixture becomes very thick before all the oil is incorporated, thin with a few drops of water. Taste and add more salt and garlic, as desired. If not serving the mayonnaise right away, refrigerate it. Garlic mayonnaise will taste better after about half an hour, and it should be eaten the same day it is made.

　　Cooks' Note

　　Plain mayonnaise is made this way, but without the garlic, and finished with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar. It can be flavored in many ways: with the addition of fresh herbs such as parsley, basil, watercress, chervil, tarragon, or chives, chopped or pounded in a mortar; mustard; anchovies, boned and pounded or finely chopped; capers or pickles, rinsed and chopped; or finely chopped chile pepper.

　　In the Green Kitchen by Alice Waters. Copyright © 2010. Published by Clarkson Potter. All Rights Reserved.Named the most influential figure in the past 30 years of the American kitchen by Gourmet magazine, ALICE WATERS is the owner of Chez Panisse restaurant and the author of nine cookbooks.