Season: July to August. The big, platelike leaves of the nasturtium plant (Tropaeolum majus) are abundant throughout the summer and often well into the golden months of autumn. With their peppery flavor, they make the perfect base for a fiery pesto. Add a sprig or two of garden mint, a few golden marigold petals, and some spicy nasturtium seeds and you have a wonderful sauce to stir into pasta, swirl on soups, or just smear in a sandwich. Pick the leaves on a warm, dry day–ideally, earlier in the summer, before the caterpillars have decided to feast on them. Whenever I make pesto, I replace the traditional Parmesan with a hard goat’s cheese, matured for a year. It makes an excellent alternative to Parmesan in all kinds of dishes.

　　

Ingredients

makes about three 4-ounce jars

　　2 ounces nasturtium leaves

　　2 or 3 mint leaves (optional)

　　2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

　　6 or so nasturtium seed pods (see p. 103)

　　6 tablespoons pine nuts (optional)

　　2 1/2 ounces mature, hard goat’s cheese or Parmesan, finely grated

　　1/4 cup lemon juice

　　2/3 cup hempseed, canola, or olive oil, plus extra to seal

　　Petals from 2 marigold flowers

　　Salt to taste

　　

Step 1

Purists say that pesto should be made by pounding the ingredients together using a mortar and pestle. For this recipe, you can certainly do that, starting by crushing the nasturtium leaves, mint leaves (if using), garlic, nasturtium pods, and nuts, then adding the cheese, followed by the lemon juice and oil. Pound until well blended, folding in the marigold petals and salt at the very end.

　　

Step 2

Then again, you can do as I do and simply whiz everything (except the marigold petals and salt) in a food processor for a couple of minutes until you have a soft, well-blended mixture. Remove from the processor and fold in the petals and salt.

　　

Step 3

Either way, spoon the pesto into small, sterilized jars (see p. 21) and pour a little oil over the surface to exclude any air. Cap with metal lids (see p. 22). Store in the fridge and use within 1 month. If you are making a lot of pesto, pack in small containers and freeze.

　　

Step 4

When you come to use the pesto, stir it well before spooning out. Make sure the surface of any pesto remaining in the jar is completely covered with oil before you return it to the fridge (this is very important if it is to keep well).

　　

VARIATION

Step 5

Traditionally, pesto is made with the leaves of the sweet basil plant (Ocimum basilicum). If you manage to grow it in good quantities, do make use of it in this recipe. Alternatively, try some other herbs as the base for your pesto. Young, raw nettle tops and wild garlic leaves (both to be gathered in early spring) work beautifully together; parsley (flat-leaf or curly) also works well. Hazels or walnuts can stand in for pine nuts, and a mature, robust Cheddar is a good alternative to Parmesan.

　　

P.S.

Step 6

Calendula officinalis, or common garden marigold, is a really useful herb and should not be ignored for culinary purposes. The golden pigment of the petals can be used, like saffron, to color rice, cakes, desserts, and butter. Alternatively, sprinkle the bittersweet, aromatic petals over mixed salad greens, or toss a few into a fresh herb omelet.

　　The River Cottage Preserves Handbook by Pam Corbin.Pam Corbin has been making preserves for as long as she can remember, and for more than twenty years her passion has been her business. Pam and her husband, Hugh, moved to Devon where they bought an old pig farm and converted it into a small jam factory. Using only wholesome, seasonal ingredients, their products soon became firm favorites with jam-lovers the world over. Pam has now hung up her professional wooden spoon but continues to "jam" at home. She also works closely with the River Cottage team, making seasonal goodies using fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers from her own garden, and from the fields and hedgerows.