Some people dislike anchovies, but it would be a shame to leave them out of this dish. They add such wonderful flavor and, most likely, people won’t even know they are there. They dissolve during the cooking and add complexity to the other assertive flavors in this dish. I like to crush canned tomatoes with my hands, so I can feel when they are the right size and how tender or firm they are. That helps me to judge the cooking time better. If you prefer, you can mash them with a wire whisk or use a food processor. If you choose to process them, use just a few quick bursts—otherwise you’ll chop them too fine and incorporate a lot of air into the tomatoes, and they will turn pink. You can add basil to this sauce if you like, or stick to the traditional Italian-American accent of fresh parsley. I choose Pecorino Romano cheese for this dish. It is made from sheep’s milk and is much sharper than Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is made from cow’s milk. But if you prefer, you may use Parmigiano-Reggiano.

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 servings

　　Salt

　　One 35-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

　　3/4 cup Cerignola or other firm green olives

　　1 pound fusilli

　　5 to 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　6 cloves garlic, peeled

　　6 anchovy fillets

　　3/4 cup oil-cured Gaeta or other black olives, pitted

　　1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper

　　1/4 cup tiny capers, rinsed and drained

　　1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

　　1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

　　

Step 1

Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat.

　　

Step 2

Pour the tomatoes and their liquid into a bowl. Mash them with your hands or a sturdy wire whisk until they are coarsely crushed. Whack the green olives with the flat side of a heavy knife or a small saucepan, remove the pits, and slice the olives coarsely. Set the tomatoes and olives aside.

　　

Step 3

Stir the fusilli into the boiling water. Return to a boil, stirring frequently. Cook the pasta, semi-covered, stirring occasionally, until done, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Whack the garlic with the flat side of a knife, add it to the pan, and cook, shaking the pan, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the anchovies and press with the back of a spoon to break them up. Toss in the green and black olives and cook until sizzling, about 2 minutes. Pour in the tomatoes and their liquid and add the red pepper. Bring to a boil, adjust the heat to a lively simmer, and cook 5 minutes. Stir in the capers.

　　

Step 5

If your skillet is large enough to hold the sauce and pasta, scoop out the cooked pasta with a large wire skimmer and drop it directly into the sauce. If not, drain the pasta, return it to the pot, and add the sauce. Place over medium heat, and stir in the parsley and remaining olive oil. Remove from the heat and stir in the grated cheese. Check seasoning, and serve immediately in warmed bowls.

　　From Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright © 2001 by A La Carte Communications and Tutti a Tavola, LLC. Published by arrangement with Alfred A. Knopf, an imprint of The Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.Buy the full book from Amazon.