The difference between a frittata and an omelet, as I see it, is that the frittata cooks very slowly and will be somewhat more firm, so that it can suspend a number of different garnishes nicely arrayed in a pattern, with their flavors complementing one another. I always slip my frittata under the broiler at the end, so that the cheese scattered on top browns. This is another dish that welcomes improvisation.

　　

Ingredients

1 large leek, white part only, cut in quarters lengthwise

　　1 tablespoon butter or light olive oil or a combination, or more if needed

　　1/4 large red or green bell pepper, cut into strips

　　2 large eggs

　　Salt and freshly ground pepper

　　1 thin slice prosciutto or country

　　or Serrano ham, cut into strips

　　1 cooked new potato, sliced

　　Freshly grated Parmesan

　　

Step 1

Put the leek pieces in your nonstick omelet or cast-iron pan, and barely cover with water. Bring to a boil, and cook until the water has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Push aside, trying to keep the leek quarters intact, add the butter or oil to the pan, and lay in the pepper strips. Cook another few minutes, then remove to a plate with a spatula.

　　

Step 2

Crack the eggs into a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and mix well with a fork. Set the pan over low heat, adding just a little more fat if needed, and pour the eggs in. Now arrange the leeks and peppers and ham strips in spokes, and tuck slices of potato in between. Add a little more salt and pepper, and cook, covered, very slowly for 8–10 minutes, until set but still a little runny on top. Grate a light coating of Parmesan over it, and slip under a preheated broiler just long enough to solidify the eggs and brown lightly.

　　

Other Ideas

Step 3

I like to use vegetables that can be arranged in a spoke pattern. Asparagus and a slim zucchini quartered lengthwise are good, as well as different colors of bell pepper, but you don’t have to let the aesthetics dictate. Small cooked artichoke hearts are wonderful with potatoes here—of course with some scallion or onion—but they will take longer in the initial cooking, 15–20 minutes. You can cook your potato along with the artichokes, if you prefer. And mushrooms are a delight, particularly if you have some attractive wild varieties, like golden chanterelles. The potato I feel is almost a must; it gives substance to the dish and, along with the Serrano ham, if you happen to have that, a distinctly Spanish accent—a delicious, attractive meal all in one.

　　The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved.Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.