This simple starter is served all over the world—at least wherever chiles are grown—but I first had it in Basque country. Here they’re fried, but you can grill fresh chiles as well; in either case they taste fresh, smoky, salty, and spicy all at the same time. The chiles you use can be mild or hot. If you use mild long chiles, like Anaheim, most people will be happy.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 or more servings

　　Extra virgin olive oil as needed

　　1 pound fresh small green frying chiles, rinsed and dried

　　Coarse salt

　　

Step 1

Put about 1/2 inch of oil in a deep skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the chiles (do not overcrowd). Cook them, turning occasionally, until the peppers are browned lightly on all sides, about 10 minutes. Repeat with the remaining chiles.

　　

Step 2

Remove from the heat with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with coarse salt. Serve immediately.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.