We tested this recipe with both stone-ground and regular "old-fashioned" grits; we liked the stone-ground best here because of its pronounced corn flavor and appealing texture. If you already have the "old-fashioned" type on hand, it's a fine substitute. Simply follow our procedure and disregard the cooking instructions on the package.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 8 servings

　　4 1/2 cups water

　　3 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　4 garlic cloves, minced

　　1 1/2 teaspoons salt

　　1/2 teaspoon black pepper

　　1 cup coarse stone-ground white grits*

　　2 cups all-purpose flour

　　2 large eggs, lightly beaten with 2 tablespoons water

　　2 cups plain fine dry bread crumbs

　　6 cups vegetable oil

　　Special equipment: a deep-fat thermometer

　　

Step 1

Line a lightly oiled 13- by 9- by 2-inch baking pan lengthwise with a 24-inch-long sheet of wax paper, letting excess hang over ends.

　　

Step 2

Bring water, butter, garlic, salt, and pepper to a boil in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot, then slowly stir in grits. Reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer, covered, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 40 minutes. Remove lid and simmer grits, stirring frequently, until very thick and tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool grits in pot 10 minutes, then pour into lined baking pan, smoothing top, and cool completely. Chill grits, covered with plastic wrap, until firm, at least 3 hours.

　　

Step 3

Discard plastic wrap and transfer grits on wax paper to a work surface, then pat dry with paper towels. Cut grits into 8 (4 1/2- by 3 1/4-inch) rectangles, then diagonally halve each rectangle to form 2 triangles.

　　

Step 4

Put flour, eggs, and bread crumbs in separate shallow dishes. Dredge a grits triangle in flour, knocking off excess, then dip in egg, letting excess drip off, and dredge in bread crumbs. Transfer coated triangle to a large baking sheet. Coat remaining triangles in same manner.

　　

Step 5

Preheat oven to 300°F.

　　

Step 6

Heat oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until it registers 375°F on thermometer. Fry triangles in 4 batches, stirring gently, until crisp and golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Return oil to 375°F between batches. Keep grits hot on a rack set in a baking pan in oven while frying other batches.

　　

Step 7

*Available at specialty foods shops and Hoppin' John's (800-828-4412; hoppinjohns.com).

　　Cooks' notes:

　　·Grits can be chilled in baking pan up to 2 days.

　　·Grits triangles can be fried 1 hour ahead and kept at room temperature on a rack in a baking pan. Reheat, uncovered, in middle of a 375°F oven 5 to 8 minutes.