One cold Saturday in January, I was looking for something that would be a change from the usual—something meaty that would provide good fuel and also stoke some pleasant taste memories. To my surprise, I saw a fresh veal tongue in the meat counter of the local supermarket, and I remembered that as a child I could always find a jar of Derby tongue packed in its own naturally jellied juice on our kitchen cupboard shelf. It was a standby for making a good luncheon sandwich, and I suddenly longed for just that. First I had to prepare the tongue, because, alas, those Derby days are a thing of the past. The tongue was small, just over a pound, and it looked fresh. But since it was shrink-wrapped, I couldn’t give it the smell test. I always remember Julia Child’s admonition: when you get to the checkout counter, just tear off the plastic, and if your fish or meat doesn’t smell impeccably fresh after you’ve given it a good sniff, don’t pay for it. I wasn’t feeling up to such a confrontation that day, but fortunately when I got the tongue home it passed muster. First I scrubbed it under running water, then I soaked it for an hour in water to cover, with a tablespoon of salt mixed in.

　　

Ingredients

A fresh veal tongue, about 1 pound

　　1 medium onion, sliced

　　2 teaspoons salt

　　2 bay leaves

　　8–10 black peppercorns

　　3 or 4 lemon slices

　　2 tablespoons butter

　　1 medium onion, cut into chunks

　　3 or 4 slim carrots, peeled and cut into sections

　　A root vegetable, such as a turnip, a parsnip, or part of a celery root, peeled and cut in chunks (optional)

　　2 or 3 small new potatoes, cut in half

　　A splash of Madeira

　　

Step 1

After scrubbing and soaking the veal, put it in a heavy pot large enough to accommodate it, and cover it with cold water. Toss in the onion and seasonings, and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and cook at a lively simmer for 45 minutes. Let the tongue cool in the liquid until you can handle it, and peel off the tough outer skin all around. Pour off the broth through a strainer and save it. Now for the final braising with this vegetable accompaniment.

　　

Step 2

Melt the butter in the pot in which you are cooking the tongue, and sauté the vegetables for a minute or so. Add the Madeira, let it cook down a little, and lay the tongue on top. Pour about 3/4 cup of the tongue cooking liquid around it, cover with foil and then with the pot’s cover, and set it all in a preheated 325° oven for 1 hour, checking once to see that there is sufficient liquid, and adding more tongue broth if necessary. The veggies should be moist but not swimming in liquid. When it’s done, cut yourself three or four diagonal slices, and spread them on a warm plate surrounded by the vegetables.

　　

Second Round

Step 3

Try a tongue sandwich with lettuce, mayonnaise, and Dijon mustard, with a couple of cornichons alongside.

　　

Third Round

Step 4

Warm slightly any remaining slices of tongue, and serve in a warm Sauce Gribiche (page 160).

　　The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved.Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.