These are made wherever there are pigs, which is most of the world. And everywhere (except in American supermarkets), they contain a great deal of fat. In fact, you cannot make real sausage without fat, ideally in a ratio of about two parts lean to one part fat. (“Lean” sausage is not sausage; it’s hamburger.) So if you’re entirely antifat, pass this recipe by. For the rest of you, there is nothing like homemade sausage, not on your first try, but on about your third or fourth, when you know exactly what seasonings turn you on. This is my favorite; it makes a lot, but the mixture freezes very well. These are great served with Creamy Horseradish Sauce (page 608). Or serve them on a bed of White Beans with Garlic (page 441). Or make a quick pan gravy—just add some white wine or water to the fat left in the pan and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is saucy—and serve over mashed potatoes. If you like highly flavored food in the morning, try them at breakfast.

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 to 12 servings (dependeing on time of day and accompaniments)

　　2 pounds boneless pork, preferably from the shoulder

　　1/2 to 3/4 pound fresh pork fatback, more if the pork itself is very lean

　　1 tablespoon salt

　　1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　1 tablespoon fennel or coriander seeds

　　1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

　　Tiny pinch each of ground cloves, ground allspice, and freshly grated nutmeg

　　

Step 1

Cut the pork and fat into small cubes and combine with all the other ingredients. Grind with a meat grinder or food processor (probably in batches, unless your machine is very large) until finely chopped—that is, ground, not pulverized. (Some small chunks are okay.) Add a little water or red wine if the mixture is so dry that it won’t hold together. Panfry a tiny piece of the meat to check the seasoning; add more of anything you like.

　　

Step 2

Shape the meat into thin patties; you will have at least 10 or 12 (freeze any you are not going to cook within a day). Heat a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the patties. Cook, rotating as necessary so they brown evenly, then turn and cook on the other side until done; they’ll be firm but not tough when cooked through. Serve.

　　

Poached Sausage with Garlic

Step 3

This will work nicely with the fresh sausage patties or store-bought patties or links: In step 2, brown the meat on one side, with about 10 garlic cloves, peeled, moving the garlic so it browns but does not burn. Add 1/2 cup dry white wine, cover, and cook until the sausage is done, another 5 minutes or so. Serve over mashed potatoes.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.