I learned this recipe when I spent the summer in the kitchen of the Hotel Sofitel in Paris, some twenty-five years ago. Roland Durand, the chef, graciously accepted me as a stagiare, or apprentice, and I was able to work in all sections of the kitchen, including the butcher shop and bake shop. I love this cake for its texture, which is moist and rich-looking but very light, and for its versatility. It goes with so many different things, but it’s also delicious all by itself. I like to dress it up with a Pistachio Crème Anglaise and some raspberries or tart cherries.

　　

Ingredients

makes 12 servings

　　3 cups milk

　　1 cup sugar

　　2/3 cup semolina flour

　　6 tablespoons butter, softened

　　2 whole eggs, plus 6 separated eggs

　　2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

　　Pistachio Crème Anglaise

　　Fresh berries or cherries, for garnish, optional

　　

Pistachio Créme Anglaise

1 cup shelled pistachios

　　2 cups milk

　　1/2 cup heavy cream

　　1/4 cup sugar

　　Pinch of salt

　　8 egg yolks

　　1/4 teaspoon almond extract

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a 9- or 10-inch springform pan, and wrap the outside of the pan with foil (this will ensure that no batter leaks out during the baking process).

　　

Step 2

In a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan, combine the milk with half the sugar and bring to a boil. Stir in the semolina and cook over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until thickened (about 10 minutes). Stir in half the butter and the remaining sugar. Remove from the heat and cool, stirring now and then. Stir in the remaining butter, the whole eggs plus 6 yolks, and the vanilla. In an electric mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry, and fold by thirds into the semolina mixture. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Place the pan in a larger baking dish and add warm water to reach about halfway up the cake pan. Bake for 1 hour. Test with a toothpick or skewer to see if the cake is set and the crumb is dry. Remove from the oven and water bath and cool completely before removing from the pan. Serve with the crème anglaise and fresh berries or cherries.

　　

Pistachio Créme Anglaise

Step 3

Toast the nuts in a 350°F oven for a few minutes to dry them out and loosen the skins. Wrap the nuts in a dish towel and rub off the skins (as much as possible). When the nuts are cool, grind them very finely. Place the nuts, milk, and cream in a small saucepan and bring just to the boiling point. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep for about 30 minutes. Strain through a fine strainer or cheesecloth and discard the nuts.

　　

Step 4

Using a 2-quart saucepan set over medium heat, whisk together the sugar, salt, and egg yolks. In a separate small saucepan, heat the pistachio milk just until it begins to boil, then whisk a small amount into the yolk mixture. Gradually add the remaining milk, stirring constantly. Continue to heat the mixture slowly, to just below the boiling point (but do not let it boil), until it thickens and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the almond extract, and continue to stir for a few minutes. Strain the custard into a bowl and set aside or refrigerate until ready to use. To serve, spoon a generous pool of the custard onto a small dessert plate and top with a slice of the cake.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.