I have always loved leeks, but now they have a particularly romantic context in my life. The first time I met my (then future) husband, Chip, he cooked chicken with leeks, a dish that knocked me out. (I guess I should mention that he worked as a professional chef in New Orleans for ten years.) He blanched the leeks, so they were bright green and pliable, then wrapped them around a stuffed chicken breast. It was the most beautiful, seductive presentation. Since then, every time I cook with leeks I think of that dish—and him. Leeks have an interesting, subtle flavor that suggests asparagus or salsify (a root vegetable). A lot of Americans don’t know how to use them, and they tend to be pricey. But this simple bistro presentation shows that they are worth the splurge. This is the most basic French preparation for leeks, and one of the most delicious. It’s also the recipe that sold me on them forever.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 bunch leeks (5 small or 3 large)

　　1 tablespoon butter, softened

　　1/4 cup white wine

　　1/2 cup Chicken Stock (p. 206) or water

　　Salt and pepper

　　Dijon Vinaigrette

　　

Dijon Vinaigrette

1 medium shallot, minced

　　1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

　　2 tablespoons wine or apple cider vinegar

　　Reserved leek pan juices

　　1/2 cup olive oil

　　Salt and pepper

　　

Step 1

Cut the root end off the leeks, as well as the dark green stem end, leaving just the white and light green portion. Split them lengthwise and remove the outer two layers. Wash thoroughly under running water, being careful to rinse between layers to remove any grit. Shake off the excess water.

　　

Step 2

Rub the bottom of a large, heavy-bottomed skillet with the softened butter, then lay the leeks, cut side down, in the pan. They should fit snugly in one layer across the pan. Pour the wine and Chicken Stock over the leeks, sprinkle with salt and a little pepper, then cover with waxed paper or parchment (which will keep the tops of the leeks moist), and bring the liquid to a boil.

　　

Step 3

Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer over low heat for about 15 minutes. Use a small spatula or tongs to turn the leeks once, halfway through the cooking process. When cooked, the leeks should be completely tender and not stringy. Turn them over once more, so the outer layers are facing up. To test doneness, I usually just peel off one or two outer layers, the last to get cooked, and sample them (if they are the least bit tough, cook for another 5 minutes).

　　

Step 4

Remove pan from the heat and cool. If there are more than 2 tablespoons of juices left in the pan, remove the leeks to a serving platter and reduce the juices to 2 tablespoons. Reserve juices for the Dijon vinaigrette.

　　

Step 5

Pour the dressing over the leeks and let sit for at least 10 minutes. These leeks are wonderful served warm or cold, but I like them best at room temperature.

　　

Dijon Vinaigrette

Step 6

Whisk together the shallot, mustard, vinegar, and pan juices in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, then season with salt and pepper.

　　Cooks' Note

　　Oven-braised Leeks: Alternatively, you can braise the leeks in a 350°F oven for 20–30 minutes in a buttered gratin dish (which, when cooled slightly and served atop a trivet, can go right to the table as a rustic-looking serving dish). Oven braising is actually easier: cooked in this manner, the leeks do not need to be turned. Simply prepare the leeks as described above (placing them cut side down), and don't forget to cover them with parchment.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.